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WINE

Wide variety of Rosé wines available at all price points

May 25, 2015

Hi folks, no homily this week, too many wines to review. Hey! I heard that sigh of relief. Recently there was a spate of requests to review Rosé. It seems the folks are finally getting over the Sutter Homes White Zin and beginning to enjoy a slightly higher quality. Rosé is a diverse, generic style of wine that ranges from deep rose, to amethyst to barely pink, from extra dry to cloyingly sweet, from fruity, to floral, to varietal. Some are great porch summer sippers and wonderful food wines. They also vary in price from $5-8 to $50-60. I think to do justice to them I may use two weeks to explore the category.

Let’s look at a range of French-made Grenache blends first. Under $10, from Provence, is Les Hauts Plateaux Rose 2014. Pale pink, it opens with strawberries, some plum and melon notes. Fruit balanced by acidity, flavors carry through finish. Serve with chicken or mildly spicy Asian or nutty cheeses. Chateau d’Esclans Whispering Angel Provence Rosé 2013 fills the under-$20 spot at $17.99. WS Suckling 90. McD says 88. Pale orange-pink in color, the bouquet is citrus and red fruit.

The palate follows with a soupçon of floral and spice notes. Smooth with refreshing mineral finish; serve with local white fishes and poultry dishes. From Sancerre at $25, Jean-Marie Berthier Domaine de Clairneaux Rose 2012. Fruit forward, plenty of acid frame, pleasing mineral notes, and great with grilled salmon, 88 points McD. Because I loved the name I checked out some Goats Do Roam 2013, a Grenache-Shiraz blend.

Bright salmon pink with strawberry and rose (the flower) nose. Fruit-driven apparent sweetness with red berries on the palate with an elegant fresh finish. Under $10 just under 90 McD, 2 price points. ST says 88.

Now some Pinot Noir Rosé. Elk Cove Rosé from the Willamette Valley in Oregon is $188/case. I say 2 price points and 90. Sunset rose with slight orange cast opens to guava, mandarin orange and hints of camellia nose.

On the palate ginger, ripe cherry, caramelized orange peel, spice notes and hints of lemongrass. The Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are also worth a look. From Provence, Gerard Boulay Sancerre Rosé 2013 fills the $25 slot. An 89-point porch sipper, pale salmon with watermelon, strawberry, grapefruit nose. Good acidity, mineral, fruit balance, very clean finish. Tanzer gave this 91 points. The Jos. Mellot Sincerite PN Rosé was the least expensive PN Rosé we sampled in this flight, at $12. Made for my lobster bisque, which is killer, or grilled steak fish. Deep rose color, red fruit nose, mostly cherry with hint of rose petals. Soft tannins, good acid balance and full mouth-feel. A lot of wine for the price, 87 McD.

Mulderbosch from S. Africa 2012 Rosé runs about $12-$14. Pours bright pink, opens to roses and ripe red fruit aromas. On the palate, straw and raspberries, some white pepper. Nicely balanced fruit and acidity, 88 points when bought nearer $12. Upper-scale Tablas Creek Tablas Estate Rosé 2013 goes for $27 but the gem, if you can get some, is Tablas Creek Dianthus Rosé, $28. 90 McD, 91 WS. Cranberry colored, the nose is redolent of watermelon, rose petal, and plums. On the very well-balanced palate, strawberries and pomegranate reverberate through a long, clean finish. A blend of Mourvedre, Grenache and Cunoise. Dominio del Plata Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec Rosé 2014, Mendoza, Argentina, was given an 88 by Tanzer, and the 2013 an 89. I decided to sample some because Tanzer is a point cheapskate, and his palate is closely aligned with mine.

These are for those who enjoy the Cali White Zins of yore, a bit on the sweet side. Lovely pink-colored with cherry and watermelon nose. On the palate balanced, but a bit fruit sweet. The flavors are cherry and raspberry. If you buy under $12 and you enjoyed Sutter Home, this is a 90-point wine, 2 McD price points.

Cheers for a memorable Memorial Day. Take a little sober time to reflect on those who gave their all to secure the blessings you enjoy and the freedom to enjoy them.

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