Wines to consider for fall and holiday meals
I’m zeroing in on fall and Thanksgiving Day wine. In addition to your blessings, I hope you try some of the following to add to your seasonal enjoyment and provide one more fillip for which to be thankful. Let’s start with two Vinas del Vero La Miranda de Secastilla, both priced around $15. The first is a Garnacha Blanca 2013. Translation: White Grenache. Pours lovely green-tinged golden-colored. The nose is green apple and stone fruit with some nut flavors. Decent fruit/acid balance, 87 points, good QPR. The Tinto 2013 is dark purple with violet rim. It opens with a mixed bouquet of violets, prunes and dark berries. On the palate anise and toasted oaken notes come into play with smooth tannic grip. A lovely food wine with its clean finish, 88 points, 2 price points. A brief reminder - nearly all wine starts off clear. It is only when the juice, after primary fermentation, is reintroduced to the seeds, stems and skins, which are retained after crushing and known as the cap, that it gains color and tannin.
A little devil I know sent me a terrific Concha y Toro Serie Riberas Gran Reserva Cab 2013. I have been a fan of Concha since we added it to our list in 1977. The 2013 did not disappoint. These dark beauties are approachable now but will improve through 2020. The aromatics are fruit, forest floor (wet earth if you prefer) some olive and tar. On the palate, cherries and berries, with dark, bitter chocolate and pepper notes. The finish is juicy and clean.
The tannins are beginning to incorporate; 91 points when bought under $15. I must say, if you wish to go upscale, the 2010 Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto priced under $86 is killer. I just sampled some and the 96 McD rating is holding up. If you find any of the 2009 they are also true bargains. I saw some around under $80. Both embarrass some of the Cali Cab producers who are asking $125 for less impressive wine. Now, about Gran Reserve Malbec 2013.
You folks are aware I’m no big fan of Malbec. I want to print these two reviews: Deep, reddish purple with black plum, blueberries and dark chocolate aromas. Concentrated black fruit on the palate with proper acid/fruit balance, smooth tannins, full body and a clean finish, 89 McD. WE wrote: "Spiky aromas of brambly, herbal berry fruits introduce a thick yet juicy palate with herbal, spicy flavors of berry and mild green notes. On the finish, this is fresh in feel, with a minty aftertaste." I think the WE guy was not using the spittoon enough or got his notes mixed up.
This Malbec is a very good QPR under $19.
Michel Chapoutier is knockin' em out with his Domaine Bila Haut. No surprise to me. He has a terrific grasp of the wine-food connection. Maison Chapoutier grows and/or produces wine in Alsace, Australia, Languedoc Roussillon, and Portugal. If you could visit Bila Haut to witness the rugged, inclement terroir, you would question the sanity of anyone trying to make fine wine there. Chapoutier has produced several gems from this tortured terrain.
The Cotes Du Roussillon Village 2014 go for about $15. This new release is made of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan (a Cotes du Rhone without the huge price tag, if you will). Dark garnet color, a bouquet of earth, mocha, dark berries, menthol, herbs and pepper all nicely balanced with a long, clean finish.
Chapoutier waxed eloquent in his description, adding, “the smell of summer rain on stones,” 89 McD points. These have revolved around 88-90 points for the past several years, an excellent QPR in most vintages.
Referring back to my wine-food comment, Chapoutier recommends this red with red peppers and anchovies. While that might fly in the rough terrain of the wine’s origin, I would prefer it with ham, sharp cheeses, some roasted red peppers and maybe a couple of those anchovies fried.
Keep in mind, folks, M. Chapoutier is not referring to those nasty salt and oil-cured anchovies one may be served in a pizza with everything.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
