Be wary of single-vineyard wine prices
I’ve been watching the political nonsense of both sides and am hanging on to a glass of wine or several as a tether to reality. By the way, I don’t recommend this for everyone. It’s my job and I’m sticking to that story. Lots to cover so let’s get to it. You may remember several write-ups of David Phinney and Orin Swift Cellars The Prisoner. Added him to the map in 1998 when he caught the olfactory attraction of Robert Parker. RP has struck again, providing a very strong 96 points to Orin Swift Cellars Mannequin 2013, a 76 percent Chardonnay blend with the balance composed of Viognier, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Muscat and Roussanne.. Talk about complex! Phinney was the wunderkind winemaker early on. Phinney is highly praised for his blending of many different varietal wines to provide approachable wine that is above the quality typical to the genus.
Mannequin is a lovely example of his skill, a solid 91-point wine under $28. Most writers seem to think this is an 88-90-pointer. Generally this is due to the structure, which is indicating a short shelf life. Drink now to 2019. I think it may cellar longer, but that isn’t in my rating.
Light golden-colored, it opens to a complex nose of pineapple, flowers, mango and oaken spices. The wine rested 11 months sur lie, and the body and round honey mouthfeel reflect the process. The profile reminds me of the older-style California Chardonnays from the 1970 and ‘80s, although most of those were made of 100 percent Chardonnay. Phinney is also noted for his Cabernet blends.
Two you may wish to try are Papillion and Mercury Head. Both are difficult to find.
Walter Hansel North Slope Pinot Noir 2013, a single-vineyard lovely, was given a very handsome 95 by RP. Regulars know I am often suspect of single-vineyard designations. Too often in the hands of the conglomerates this designation is a ploy to help elevate prices by signifying scarcity. With Hansel, both father and son Stephen, the current owner, this is not the case.
They recognize the importance of terroir and have five, site-specific, designated Pinot Noir clones planted where appropriate. All five were rated 90 and up in WA by RP. The fruit here is clone 115, noted for cherries and aromatics.
These need cellar time, folks. If you can buy under $425/case they are well worth the candle. Add 2 price points. Lots of cherry, currant, forest floor, bramble berries, barrel spices and a hint of anise aromas with a robust, concentrated but well-balanced flavor profile. Hansel holds down yield by pruning and hand selecting. RRs will recognize the names of the five site-specific bottlings, as I have written of all in the past few years: South Slope, North Slope Cuvee Alyce (named for mom), Cahill Lane and Hirsch Block 6. These are produced in 100- to 750-case lots using old-style, hand-selected early morning picking; cold maceration; open barrel, natural yeast fermentation with use of new and used oak.
My enjoyment stems from the affinity these have for food. They are not your typical huge fruit bombs so frequently sold out of Cali.
Rather they are more along the line of well-made Burgundian bottlings, austere and clean with many facets.
As I wrote when I reviewed the Cuvee Alyce, Hansel deserves huge props for selling his lovely wine at a more-than-fair price point. To be candid, I don’t know how he can make a living at the range, considering the total production is well under 4,500 cases.
Hansel also produces several lovely Chardonnays at about 5,000 cases. These are all difficult to find but if you call 707-525-3614, the winery, you may be able to snap some up.
Barbara and I are going to Sonoma in a few weeks, and I am hoping to get an appointment to sample the 2014. You can bet if I am so lucky you will get a review of the entire treasure trove. Since this is the last column before St. Paddy’s Day let me give this week’s final words of wisdom. Avoid green beer and wine.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com
