Don’t let old habits keep you from trying new wines

With the exceptions of the most famous Dane in our English language, Danish blue cheese, Rødgrød med fløde, Kopenhagener Gebäck, Dänischer Plunder, Danish ham and films by Susanne Bier, I generally avoid things Danish. This week I was made to come to terms with my prejudices when one of my wine associates, Stefan Sigurdsson, wrote me concerning “hygge.” Pronounced hue-gah, it is a wonderful concept. It seems Danes have long celebrated hygge as a way of life, indulging in simple pleasures and comfort as frequently and passionately as possible. And who could pass on that? Stefan wrote, “It is hard to define in exact terms,” but he goes on to inform with “the art of creating warmth, comfort, and well-being through connection, treasuring the moment, and surrounding yourself with things you love. Hygge is commonly believed to have five dimensions; feeling, sight, smell, sound and arguably most important, taste.” I slightly edited his note. Its finale was an appeal to try several wines he represents. You can imagine my surprise! Danish wine? Further reading explained these were not Mead, Akvavit, Glogg, nor were they Carlsberg or Tuborg Beer. He offered a Cali Pinot, a Grecian wine from Nemea and two Italians. Those Danes are so inscrutable. I plan on asking Stefan the diff between hygge and the German Gemuetlichkiet, but it appears the Danish word is more encompassing, and much easier to spell, I might add.

Masciarelli Marina Cvetic San Martino Rosso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2013 is as good as you can get under $30. In most vintages, this is a very solid wine, gathering ratings in the 89-91-point range. However, the ‘13 is a solid 94 points and the ‘14 is 92. The winemaker described it as limpid, to which I take exception, since limpid means clear, pure, as in water. These 2013s are dark ruby-colored (like a black cherry) with a lovely black cherry and violets bouquet undergirded with oaken spice notes derived from 12 months in French barriques, half new. On the palate we find black pepper and dark chocolate added to the fruit. All are riding a bright, fresh, slightly tannic frame. No need for concern with the tannic grip. The color, fruit and residual oak will support the wine to age appropriately, mellowing all into an excellent wine. For most it is very drinkable now, but a few years in cellar will be better. If you can buy it under $28 add 2 price points.

David Phinney of Orin Swift fame, whom I wrote of a few weeks back concerning his Locations labels, has a new guy on the block. Locations Pinot Noir OR5 Willamette Valley 2015 is deep purple, with ripe cherries and blackberries on the nose. The palate shows maraschino cherry, pomegranate and stewed raspberries. Add in spice notes, forest floor and supple tannins, and you have one heckuva Pinot Noir. I’ve seem them on sale at $280/case, 91 points McD. These are limited production, so if you find some, don’t hesitate. They are at least as delicious as the OR4.

Finally, for all you hunters with venison in your larder, check out Castello D’Albola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2013. This is the new release, ready in 2018. I strongly recommend you buy a case of four each, 2011, 2012 and 2013. All are excellent, will cellar, and the date distribution will cover hunting season with three bottles of perfectly aged venison wines over the next four years. Or, if you are a romantic, you could share 12 bowls of spaghetti with your favorite lady. The 2013 is lovely, 91 points McD, and can be found at a value price of $26. There is a substantial difference between the Classico and the Riserva, and it is reflected in the oak finish of the Riserva. The Classico is also lovely but it has slightly less body and none of the oak tones, perhaps a bit more minerality. You can find the Classico under $20 where it is fair value. The Polar Bear Plunge was a gas. Had lots of fun at the after party. We evaluated the Classico against beef enchiladas and guac. The group loved the combo.