Make the most of strawberry season

Strawberry season has begun. You’ll find pints and quarts of the ruddy early fruits on display at local markets and roadside stands. Shaped like plump cones with leafy green caps, tart-sweet red strawberries are covered with tiny seeds that give them a speckled appearance. 

Fresh strawberries are one of the most popular fruits and offer a number of health benefits. A type of flavonoid called anthocyanin is found in strawberries, and several rigorous studies have shown them to provide anti-inflammatory properties helpful in protecting against heart disease, stroke and cancer. In addition, strawberries are rich in folate, potassium, vitamin C and fiber, all essential elements in a healthy diet. 

Like so many of the foods we enjoy, strawberries have been around for centuries. Originally, they were treated as ornamental plants because of their delicate white flowering habit and lovely fragrance. Strawberries were a symbol for Venus, the goddess of love, because of the fruit’s heart-like shape and bright red color. 

Although mentioned by Roman poets Virgil and Ovid during the first century AD, at that time strawberries were prized for their medicinal value. Later, medieval cathedrals were carved with strawberry designs as a symbol for perfection and righteousness. Shakespeare wrote about strawberry gardens during the 1600s, but probably did not refer to the style of berries we enjoy as food today. 

The modern strawberry varietal currently cultivated descended from a cross between the hardy Virginia strawberry (imported to Europe from North America) and a Chilean variety noted for its large size. Subsequent hybrids were developed to feature desirable traits such as hardiness, resistance to leaf scorch, juice, size and firmness. 

By the late 1800s, commercial strawberry farms were thriving throughout the Northeastern United States. In 1899, Sussex County, Delaware produced 7 million quarts of strawberries, more than any other county in the country. While many other areas now produce strawberries, the most delicious are the ones found in our region. 

What’s the best way to eat strawberries? During the last century, because of their fragile and highly perishable nature, most of the berries were processed into preserves, syrups and flavorings. While that continues today, we are fortunate to have access to local sources of strawberries, instead of those that have traveled for weeks to reach us. 

This time of year, my favorite dessert is strawberry shortcake. Whether on a buttermilk biscuit as seen in the photo, or on a slice of pound cake or puff pastry, the combination of fresh berries and whipped cream is a summertime delight. 

The term shortcake refers to pastry or bread that is high in fat or shortening. The fat content will also keep the cake from gaining too much height, so it’s short in its shape as well. The earliest recipe for strawberry shortcake appeared in 1847 and called for a dense biscuit that was buttered and layered with mashed strawberries, then topped with a thick icing. 

Within a few years, women’s groups began holding shortcake parties, and the recipes evolved to include a wide range of added ingredients, and the favored topping evolved from buttercream icing to slightly sweetened, freshly whipped cream. 

There are just a few keys to a perfect strawberry shortcake. First, macerate the sliced berries in a mixture of mashed berries and sugar. This softens and sweetens the berries, making them rich and juicy. The next tip is to make sure the shortcake is fresh and tender. If you’ve ever had shortcake made with day-old biscuits, you can understand this necessity. 

Finally, keep the additives at a minimum. You’ll want that beautiful berry flavor to shine through. You don’t need almond extract or crushed mint leaves mixed with the berries (at least, I don’t). Here’s my recipe for a simple strawberry shortcake that needs nothing more than a spoon to scoop up every bite.

Strawberries for Shortcake 

1 lb strawberries 
1 T sugar 
1/4 t lemon juice 

Remove the green leafy tops and hull the berries. Cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices. Place 1/4 C of berries in a bowl and mash into pulp with a fork or potato masher. Add sugar and lemon juice; stir to combine. Add remaining sliced berries and toss gently. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow to macerate at room temperature for about 15 minutes.

Whipped Cream 

1 pt heavy cream 
1 T sugar 
1 t vanilla 

Pour the cream into a clean mixing bowl and whip with an electric beater until starting to firm up. Add the sugar and vanilla and whip just until peaks form - do not overbeat. Store any unused cream in the refrigerator in a sealed container.

Shortcake Assembly 

4 freshly baked biscuits* 
sliced strawberries 
whipped cream 
mint sprigs (optional) 

Split the biscuits onto dessert plates. Spread whipped cream on the cut side of the bottom half and cover with a generous spoonful of berries. Spread whipped cream over the berries and set the top half on the cream. Garnish the top with a drop of whipped cream, 2 berry slices and mint sprig (if using). Yield: 4 servings.

*Note: substitute ladyfingers, sliced pound cake, sponge cake rounds or freshly baked puff pastry shells.