The Masi family has been producing wine since turn of the 20th century

There was a hint of romance in those oddly shaped Chianti bottles with the straw casing named Fiasci. Probably related in my mind to “Lady and the Tramp.”  Writing of which, I heard there is a Disney remake on the way. Bob Eiger wants to modernize it. I read that Tramp was going to be a homeless dog living in San Francisco and Lady would be wearing fishnets and working the Tenderloin. Probably just more fake news. And that, my faithful reader friends, along with the spaghetti and meatballs I’m preparing for dinner, helped me segue’ into a review of two Renzo Masi, good QPR, Italian lovelies I just sampled. 

The Masi family has been producing wine in the center of the Chianti Rufina region since the turn of the 20th century (1900 for historically illiterate or are editing to save space, LoL) Their estate name is Basciano Farms, Fattoria di Basciano. Here’s a rare McD endorsement; this is a name you can trust for consistent, price-friendly, quality wine. As Regular Readers (RRs) are aware, wine is terroir driven, so weather can be a factor. On the Rufino hillsides it is dry; the soil is a stony affair known as “Galestro.” Due to its proximity to the Apennine Mountains and the Sieve River Valley. there is a broad temperature swing day to night. These conditions are excellent for grapes. Masi produces I.G.T., DOC and DOCG quality. I have covered these distinctions in the past. 2017 was a very difficult year in Rufino, but the vintage turned out well. Good color, structure and concentration due to a very dry summer and frost damage reduction led to smaller berries and less bunches. Bad for farmers due to low yields, but great for winos.

Renzo Masi, Erta e China, 2017 IGT Toscana is a blend of 50 percent Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon. A true Toscano Rosso black cherry and herbs, from the Sangiovese, with the Cab providing fruit, body, color and added complexity. Great with tomato sauce, sausage and meatballs. long, clean finish cleans up the palate; delicious wine; 88 points under $17. The Chianti DOCG 2018 is primarily Sangiovese. I was looking for more cherry here but plum was predominant. This again was typical, made to consume relatively soon. Easy approach, medium body, open nose and food friendly.  We thought it better with the food. The Erta e China will improve a bit with shelf time, and while it is also food friendly, it will serve as a stand alone or will accompany grilled meats. The Fiasci, btw were too expensive to produce. Originally, they were made by nimble-fingered, Italian women. The basket is typically made of sala, a swamp weed, sun-dried and blanched with sulfur. Each lady produced about 300 per day. 

My friend Nik Weis hit it out of the park again with the 2018 St. Urbans-Hof Estate Riesling from Old Vines. For those who remember the disappointing Goldtropfchen and Blue Nun from the ‘70s and ‘80s, this ain’t that. These are well-crafted, balanced, off dry beauties. Consistently rated around 90 points, Weis is another producer who doesn’t disappoint. Herr Weis is the winemaker. He is a farmer also, who carefully crafts his wines. All the grapes used are from two vineyard parcels, 60 years old, providing more complexity and character. Nik has chosen to employ natural ambient yeast for fermentation. This can be a dicey proposition. Many other winemakers choose to inoculate their wines to avoid the vagaries of “wild yeast.” At a recent dinner, Weis expressed his opinion that using natural, ambient yeast provides authenticity to his wines. I’m on board for that. RRs will remember my constant nattering about the trend of so many, to “dumb down” their wine to the box wine profile to appeal to the crowd. I am more adventurous and prefer a wider variety of terroir-driven products. It is a very wide world and if yesterday’s vintage in Oakville was weak, there is another from Paso that is just fine. When the opportunity to attend a wine dinner, with Nik, please avail yourselves. The man is extremely knowledgeable, and an entertaining raconteur. Gemütlich is a German word to describe him. It means warm, friendly and cheerful.