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Answering emails is safer than attending crowded wine events

February 24, 2020

I decided against NYC for the Kosher Wine and Food event as a precaution. Prudent winos may wish to avoid crowds and sneezing people (see below). Let’s answer some email instead. Sally wrote concerning Edna Valley Chardonnay. An original Santa Cruz Mountains bellwether, their Chardonnay is a perennial success. The generic usually rates 86-88 points and at $12 is a decent entry-level Chard. I’m unsure which label you refer to, so I will provide the Mt. Eden Vineyard 2016. There are several Edna Valley producers. Mt. Eden 2016: redolent lemon and orange bouquet with dry sand and smoky oaky nuance. On the palate, nectarine and lemon ride a bright acid/tannic supporting frame through a long, clean finish, 90 McD around $20. I would choose the Calera 2017 around $35 at 92 McD. Lemon, lime and sea breeze salinity aromas are repeated on the palate with bright acidity frame. These are wonderful seafood wines and enhance lobster scampi especially well.

George asked about Barboursville Vineyards Reserve Viognier 2017 which was recently written up in Wine Enthusiast. I rate these Virginia lovelies 88 at around $20. Won double gold at San Fran Chronicle IWC 2018. Virginia seems to have found its niche with Viognier. The Barboursville used no oak. However, it gained character by spending 10 months on its lees. Look for pears, passionfruit with citrus accent and a slightly grassy palate. Barboursville Reserve Vermentino 2017 is also worth a look. I was particularly delighted with the pervasive aromas of pear, tangerine and tea enhanced with earthy mineral notes. On the palate, pear, apple, lemon peel and white pepper flow into a lovely, dry, clean mineral close. Most Vermentino I have sampled is from Italy. Barboursville is giving notice with this selection, 91 McD around $22. 

Sam asked about a former recommendation, the 98-100-point Chateau Pontet Canet 2010. These highly touted wines did not hold their prices and can be had today in their perfect window for less than $150/magnum. They did outshine the 2009s, which had 100-point scores from RP and J. Dunnock. Let me remind those in this market, it is imperative to look into the ownership skein. Those who cellar will find this read particularly valuable: https://www.moneycrashers.com/collecting-investing-wine-costs-risks/. At the time, I recommended buying the 2005 at 94 points. Ms. Jancis reviewed these again at a blind tasting in February 2017. Her opinion said, “Overall it’s well done and pretty glamorous.” JR is a stern taskmaster. As a longtime reader and fan, that means home run. She says these will drink through 2040. 

Gary Farrell (the Prince of Pinot Noir) wines are owned by Vincraft now. His last vintage was the 2012. The current winemaker is Theresa Heredia, a former Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards winemaker, where she earned big props for small-batch Chards and Pinot Noir. In 2006 and 2008, she spent time in France honing her craft and gaining a Burgundian influence to her products. In 2012, Theresa took the reins at Gary Farrell and has continued to enhance her reputation as a small-batch terroir explorer. Check out Gary Farrell Hallberg RRV Pinot Noir, 93 McD around $52. it is a step up from the 2015 and ‘16. Complex bouquet of black cherry, cola, herbs, spices and a touch of oak. Shines on the palate with raspberry, cherry, damp earth, tea and a hint of tarragon. It’s approachable now, but a year or two of aging, or even just decanting and breathing will enhance. Will cellar at least five years.

On the health front, can you imagine being able to quarantine New York City? Our issue in the U.S. is the flu. Up from 20 million to 26 million and the death toll rising to 14,000. I’m reporting this because it is barely discussed in our media. I am not writing, “Don’t take coronavirus seriously.” It is worth taking precautions; the transmission vehicle is like flu. Prudent winos may wish to avoid crowds and sneezing people. Your flu shot does not provide immunization from corona. It may not even work well vs. this strain of flu. Because so many don’t get the flu vaccine, it is difficult to assess the effectiveness until detailed info is collected and evaluated. You can fully inform yourselves here: www.health.com/condition/cold-flu-sinus/flu-shot-mix-up-not-effective.

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