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New Sonoma releases show fires didn’t ruin 2017 vintage

May 4, 2020

So far, those sending email are weathering this storm. Hopefully all are well and you are continuing good health practices. Recent food supply scare is very disconcerting. Let’s all hope and pray it is as overblown as the initial C-19 predictions seem to be. Don’t wish to diminish the travail of any who have suffered the illness. My heart and prayers go out to them. That writ, in retrospect, it does appear at this time that the extent and severity of this pandemic has been greatly exaggerated. Hopefully we learned how fragile our systems are and we try to plan better. A major issue with these every-100-year events is having no one to provide historical reference.

The economic repercussions are a related but separate issue which probably will take much longer to resolve. I’m ambivalent concerning the open/don’t open debate. Some questions will certainly be answered in roughly 2-4 weeks. The states and localities which opted to reopen will likely answer questions about reinfection escalation or not. I’m sure all will join me in hoping the hype will be debunked and we can get back to a more agreeable routine.

Robert Hall Winery Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc 2019 should be on your store’s shelves shortly. This SB is a perennial good buy, rating 88-90 since 2015. Straw green-colored, look for green apple-citrus nose which repeats on the palate. Cold fermentation keeps this dry, crisp and aromatic. Medium finish with mineral notes, $17, McD 89 points. Those who wish to go upscale can search for Huneeus Family Quintessa Illumination Napa Valley SB 2018, 90 McD under $48. The best recent vintage was the 2015, probably a tough find. The 2017, 89 McD at $44, is also a fine choice. Agustin Huneeus was the driving force behind the success of Concha y Toro. He was CEO about 50 years ago when they were just a small winery. He fled Chile to avoid the mess created by Salvador Allende. Among others, his company produces The Prisoner, Saldo, Faust in Napa, Veramonte in Chile, and Neyen Espiritu de Apalta.

Those who like to show labels may ask their local store to bring in some Eisele Vineyard SB Napa (formerly known as Araujo Estate). Most recent vintages rate 90 and will set you back around $100-$120. If you are in this category, I recommend big-buck buckaroos bring in some of Lail Vineyards Georgia Napa SB 2017, 94 McD instead. Ready to drink starting 2021, you will spend $1,700/case of 12, but your children and their pals will hold you in high esteem. On a serious note, all the likely suspects swooned over the 2017. I was fortunate to sample two thimbles and must admit it was wonderful. That said, I’m hard pressed to spend $190/bottle, the going price at Zachys in DC.

Beaulieu Vineyard BV Carneros Chardonnay very rarely disappoints. In fact, over my 40 years of observation, it was extremely rare to find any BV products that weren’t good value. I looked back into my notes on their top-flight BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve Napa Cab. Since 1992 they have rated 90, with many 92 and 93 or better. The only exception was 88 in 2011. Geo. de Latour is made to cellar and has the added benefit of being findable most of the time. I just read the 2007, which is just now entering its drinking window, 2022-60, was available for $115. That is an absolute steal for a well-aged 96-point Napa Cab. Wow, got off on a tangent there. Back to 2017 Carneros Chardonnay. RRs know if I write of USA Chardonnay, it is often old-style, big, buttery boys. Hold the lean; no low-oak “austere” stuff. When I want that, and for certain foods it’s the bomb, I turn to Premiere Cru Chablis. Lovely golden-colored, the Carneros Chard has a redolent bouquet of lemon blossom/lemon meringue pie, enhanced by pie spices. On the complex palate look for more lemon pie, some apple notes, with buttery almond and barrel spice background. The judicious use of oak was pleasing to me, subtle. Lovely, round mouthfeel, and crisp fruit acidity persists through its finish. I sampled several Sonoma 2017s, the year of flood and fire. Happy to report that none were tainted. Tip of the McD hat and another tribute to the integrity of the Sonoma winos.

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