There are many Mother’s Day wine winners

Happy Mother’s Day! As the Germans say,” De mutter ist immer dar bie.” Hopefully this reminder will prompt at least one faithful reader with a short memory to call or see Mom. The translation is: “The mother is always there.” My mom passed 1996. I still think of her. Fortunately, we stayed in touch, and although as Frank sang, “Regrets, I have a few,” for the most part, they are late birthday cards and not enough phone calls. Don’t be neglectful. Regrets last for a long time. 

Several regular correspondents are big fans of Italian wine. In a column from 2016, I wrote of Marchese Antinori Solaia Tuscano 2010 20 as a 95+ with a window of 2016-40. I want to inform all it is wonderful already. Original comments were: “...Dark garnet colored chewy with oak notes. Providing smoky barrel spices tannins are a bit aggressive as the wine did 18 months in new oak. Nose is closed but airing allows a complex bouquet of ripe blackberries, violets, leather, thyme and balsamic notes. On the palate hiding beneath the tannins are currants, black cherry, licorice, mint. Hold your fire - this will not escalate too much. Went from $129 to $200 and has exceeded my expectations The reason I brought this up? The 2015 is also highly touted and the opening price is $332 on a pre arrival for this month. My notes: dark ruby with orange tinges. Pronounced cherry, plum, leather and cocoa.  Fruit follows on the palate with almost Barolo-like tannins. My guru, Jancis Robinson wrote, “Droolingly gorgeous nose: black cherry, leather, cinnamon, cocoa, plum. More Pauillac than Pauillac and more Napa than Napa. A really top example. There's a bit of heat on the finish that seems a little raw, but I suspect harmony will comes with age. Drink 2022-40. She rated the 2010, 18.5 and the 2015, 18 points. If you are in this market. The 2010 is a great bargain. 

 For low renters like myself, Antinori’s Tiganello, Riserva, 2013, 92 McD, goes for $45. window is 2018-28.  JR said 17.5.  My notes: opens, after 15 minutes in glass, to fruit, dark earth and barrel driven cedar nose. On the palate more fruit and some herbs, clean acidity balances all. The Tiganello is an every day wine and has shown 89 or better since 2005. 

Located in Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino (BdM) is the only wine required by Italian law to be made from 100 percent Sangiovese. Brunello di Montalcino was one of the first six wines to be awarded DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Guarantita) status, in 1980. RR’s may remember I am a long time fan of this level of Sangiovese and although I write up the trendy “Tuscan blends,” when push comes to shove, a little Chianti with some liver and fava beans or a B di M is more my go to. A problem, readers may be indicating, is they like to try their wine before it is or It’s time. The best Brunelli share an issue also found in great Bordeaux, Cali Cabs and Aussie Shiraz. When they are young, they are more difficult to judge for the inexperienced. Those listed are generally dark, tannic and tightly wound. The nose is usually closed. It takes several years for them to show the mouthwatering fruit, which exhibits after a few years and a little aeration. Il Poggione BdM, DOCG is my go to. Best current vintages are 2012, 13 and 15. Most recent available is the 2016. All are aged three years in oak, then further bottle-aged prior to release. The 2015 is 94 McD and can be found around $68. Look for cherries, damp earth, tobacco and smoky aromas with cherry and floral flavors riding a pronounced tannic frame. Tells us let’s wait a few more years. These wines usually don’t escalate rapidly in price. RP wrote 97 and Suckling 96. The 2011 are ready now; priced around $77, they are lovely also. Parker 95, My notes: Dark ruby with orange accent. Cherry nose. Pronounced Sangiovese flavors and tannins akin to Barolo. Long clean finish repeats cherries. 93 McD 

Today’s chuckle  (I wanted to include this but decided it was too mean spirited.  I’m curious if Art Carney, Rocky Raccoons, Jack Benny’s valet, Petey Pie and Popeye the wife beater our fearless leaders cowering in their homes, will allow us to travel.)