Try some groovy German wine for a change of taste

Memorial Day is for remembering those who died in service to our country. I hope all will pause on Monday to say a prayer or, for those who aren’t prayerful, to take time to remember all who gave their lives to provide us with our safe, prosperous society. 

Many of my friends own local small businesses or are employed in them. In many cases, things are getting very tight. Although traffic at the beach is still slim, it does appear we are in an uptrend. This coming week should provide a more definitive look at resurgence or diminution of C-19. There is a mixed message from many experts. Therefore, I am still cowering at home, wearing a mask to go shopping, and washing my hands to the point my fingerprints are beginning to disappear faster than a hot water-washed sugar cube. This past week I had the experience of a remote physical and two dental appointments. Dental care by its very nature requires hands-on. As you are aware, there is a lot of “airborne from the patients” going on no matter how careful the healthcare providers are. First, let me praise the providers for their efforts to provide a safe environment. They were excellent, to my untrained eye, and courageous to care for me. That said, phone call appointments via telehealth are not my cup of tea. A physical over the phone doesn’t get it for me. Better than nothing, but not much. Again, the folks who cared for me were wonderful. I wish them the best and hope things return to normal soon to relieve them from possible exposure.

Grüner Veltliner is the most widely planted grape in Austria. I love to call it Gruve because, as a guy of a certain age, Groovy means good times to me. Top selections rival the best white Burgundy, at a fraction of its cost. These are terrific food wines, as well as porch sippers. I prefer them bone-dry. Most common flavors are citrus: lemon, lime or grapefruit supported by vibrant acidity. As they age, tropical fruit, especially pineapple, may come to the fore.  They have lovely full body, and many of the best show a spicy, peppery nuance. Gruve drinks well young but handles long-term aging as well. Look for the 2018 Domane Wachau Frei Weingartner Achleiten Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, 92 McD points, WS 91, at $40. Be careful; Wachau produces many labels. Silver-flecked straw-colored, a bit herbaceous; let it stand a minute, then look for a mixed palate of apple, mango and orange supported with a bright mineral acidity. Finishes cleanly. Fruit gives the appearance of sweetness in this dry wine. It has rated 91 or better since at least 2009. The 2016 Hirsch Renner Kamptal Grüner Veltliner is findable under $40, 91 McD. Tony Gallons loved it at 94. Just entered its window in 2018; it is wonderful now.

Driving west toward Liechtenstein, when you reach A 22, the road to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Innsbruck, two terrific ski resorts, travel over the mountains to the south and you arrive in Alto Adige in the Sudtirol foothills. Possibly the most beautiful mountain road I’ve seen. Most think of the wonderful dry Pinot Grigio found here. Today, let’s discuss Pinot Blanc, specifically Cantina Termeno - Kellerei Tramin Moriz Pinot Bianco 2018. Look for apple, pear and quince accented by hazelnut riding an acid-bright frame, 89 McD. Another wine in this stable is their Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), a lovely, ruby-colored, berry nose with raspberry, cherry, some plum and a hint of clove. Appropriate tannic support, 89 McD. I especially enjoyed the bottling package. A Burgundy bottle sealed with a glass plug-like closure. At $16, Tramin Moriz is an excellent buy and gets 2 price points. 

Big-buck buyers – I just saw the 2011 Gevrey Chambertin Grand Cru Chambertin on sale for $237, 95 McD, and Chateau Lascombes Margaux 2009 for $90, 94 McD. Garnet-red with crimson rim, red and black fruit bouquet with coffee and anise accents. On the palate, a mouthful of black fruit, more licorice and some oak. Flavors persist through finish. Color plus tannins say it will continue to improve. Lascombes is a steal!