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Search out limited editions and reserve selections for special gift-giving

December 12, 2020

The clock is ticking, so here are some examples of wines available in our local stores which can help brighten your holiday. La Marca Prosecco is a fine choice. Finely beaded mousse opens to citrus and honey nose, with peach and apple flavors riding a crisp acid frame with a hint of sweetness. Label it off-dry, makes a nice Bellini, 89 McD around $20. Many will read Ruffino and think of those cute little straw-covered bottles (fiaschi) of Chianti that are tough to find anymore. Did you know that Cosimo de Medici was the first to define appellations of origin in 1716? Ruffino also produces several tiers of Prosecco. The DOC can be found around $13; it is crisp, dry, with fresh citrus nose. Think aperitif,  or try with shrimp or shellfish. The organic NV can be found around $14; both rate 88 McD. La Gioiosa et Amorosa Treviso NV is another $14, 87-point sparkler that has medaled at Texsom and IWC. Goes well with pork. From the Argentine, 88 McD Domaine Bousquet PN/Chard Brut Rosé was a pleasant surprise around $13. Lovely salmon-pink color with plenty of fine bubbles. Opens to raspberry and roses nose with a citrus, lees, off-dry, creamy, refreshing palate. Those wishing to go French and spend time reading here are aware of my affinity for Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Yellow Label Brut NV. Consistent is the operative word. Pale golden-colored, lovely bead, opens to floral nose and biscuits. On the creamy, leesy palate, cherry-plum (mirabele), orange and some hazelnut are supported by refreshing acidity, 90 McD around $44.

Bollinger has a sure winner for collectors, a gift box named 007 Special Edition for $79.  Bollinger was James Bond’s favorite  sparkler of choice in 14 movies. The packaging shows Bond standing beside his Aston Martin with “No Time to Die” on its label.  I’ve seen 6-paks offered around $350. Due to original Bond actor Sean Connery’s recent demise, this label’s price is escalating. I’m guessing it will go to a high plane over time. Resellers, take care to buy the boxed bottle labeled Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut James Bond 007 Limited Edition. Store it carefully, including the box. Those drinking vintage, look for 2009 around $205, 93 McD. This label will read Bollinger La Grande Annee Brut James Bond 007 Edition. Another spec buy is the 2007 vintage with same label. I saw some in NJ at $166/bottle. I’m guessing the bottle alone, in decent condition, will eventually be worth more to collectors. Please pronounce it Bool-ange-ay.

Another W. Blake Gray piece describes the Napa disaster and its aftermath well: www.wine-searcher.com/m/2020/10/get-well-soon-napa-valley.

Jason Powell asked me about autolysis. Apparently, he looked the word up without including wine term in description. The medical term, destruction of cells by their own enzymes, is a bit disgusting when thinking about wine. However, in the sparkling world it represents a desirable process. When fermentation (which provides the bubbles) is complete following decomposition of spent yeast cells after dosage, the wine is left sur lie, or on the lees (‘dead yeast cells’ sounds ugly). This adds the creamy feeling and provides flavors referred to as sweet aldehydes (nuts and vanilla are two examples) and nuances of biscuit, warm bread or  brioche.

Here’s an idea for a gift for Italian pals, Carmen. 2016 Volpaia Chianti Riserva DOCG is ready now and available in Delaware for $40. This garnered 97 points from WS. In fact, any vintage from 2010 with the exception of 2017 rated 91 or better. Several can be found around $40 and have a ready-now, low 90s rating through mid-2020s. The 2015 won No. 3 on WS Top 100. It is available in Claymont. The 2016 and ‘18 are best recent vintages. Keep in mind that Riserva and Gran Seleczione are only made in the best vintages. Another gem is 2016 Marchesi Antinori Badia a Passignano DOCG GS; rated 95 McD, it can be had for $60. Rivals the 2013. I’ve seen 6-paks at $305. Easier to find. Look for cherry, damp earth, cedar, mixed herbs and mushroom aromas. On the palate, cherry repeats with some well-integrated barrel notes. Lovely soft tannins, bright acidity and mineral tones support all. For those who enjoy Sangiovese, this is a perfect mouthful. 

Happy Chanukah, and may your week be well lighted with the joys of the season.

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