Hors d’oeuvres platters can be downsized to fit gathering protocols

Traditionally, this would be the time of year when we’re planning to stop by friends’ holiday open houses, share some cheer at a cocktail party or gather with family for a festive dinner. As we have been saying to each other for many months now, things are certainly different. With travel restrictions and guidelines against gathering in groups, we’re approaching the holidays with different expectations.

For those of you who have created a “pod” that includes people living outside your home, but whose protocol practices you trust, an outdoor porch or sheltered patio could be a spot to host a small get-together, if the weather cooperates. And an easy way to share some tasty treats is with individual appetizer trays featuring an array of savory flavors, like the one in the photo, sized for two people.

Whether you call them canapés, appetizers or hors d’oeuvres, we’re referring to small portions with bright flavors in a single bite. But there are a few subtle differences. The French phrase “hors d’oeuvres” translates to “outside the work” or something served before the main course. An appetizer is a small dish designed to stimulate the appetite (mispronounced by my brothers when they were younger as “appa-teaser”).

Canapés, although the terms are often used interchangeably, have a specific layered form. Miniature loaves of toasted, thinly sliced bread or crackers are covered with a savory spread (like a rich country paté) or shaved slices of meat or cheese. As you may have noticed, the key concept here is small and easy to eat by hand.

A basic canapé construction technique begins with a base that is firm enough to hold a topping, but not so brittle that it will shatter into pieces with that first bite. Toppings can be anything from a creamy mousse to matchstick slivers of vegetables to paper-thin slices of prosciutto. A finishing touch can be a garnish of relish, olive or sprig of herb to add color and flair.

For a varied selection on an hors d’oeuvres platter, combine crackers with sliced, spiced meat, such as pastrami, and either a block or chunks of flavorful cheese. In this case, we used water crackers, a pepper-crusted salami from Lloyd’s, and a pretty blue cheese wedge from Chapel Creamery. Olives, artichoke hearts and the mix of slivered red pepper and carrot offer crunch and color.

Here’s the chance to bring out those whimsical cheese knives and spreaders we typically forget we have. We used a silvery, scrolled and beaded knife received as a holiday gift this year on an elegant tile platter given by our friend Cindy last year. Another thought to keep in mind is whether the appetizers will precede a full meal or if they are the main event, often referred to as “heavy hors d’oeuvres.”

This expression usually means you’ll see an array of heated and hearty dishes. These are the kinds of things we probably should avoid this year. Chafing dishes or crock pots full of savory meatballs or platters of steamed shrimp could be problematic. There are the kinds of things difficult to serve to a group (no matter how small) without multiple people touching the same surfaces.

If you’re sticking with small, I’ve included recipes for a few options to include on individual appetizer platters along with your basic canapés or crudités: cheese straws, beef pinwheels and stuffed grape leaves. Happy Holidays!

Cheese Straws

1 lb frozen puff pastry, thawed

3/4 C grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Preheat oven to 350. Line baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside. Roll out the pastry sheet into a 20-by-24-inch rectangle. Sprinkle the dough with half the cheese and firmly press it into the dough with the rolling pin. Fold the dough in half, matching the short ends. Roll again into a 20-by-24-inch rectangle and sprinkle with remaining cheese. Use a sharp paring knife to cut the dough into strips about 1/3-inch wide. Twist each strip into a corkscrew and arrange in a single layer on the baking sheet. Bake until the strips are crisp and slightly browned. Allow to cool for about 5 minutes before removing the straws to an airtight container. Yield: 1 1/2 dozen straws.

Beef Pinwheels

8 oz cream cheese, softened

3 T prepared horseradish

1 T grainy mustard

1/2 t pepper

pinch cayenne

8 large slices roast beef

Whip the cream cheese until fluffy. Stir in the horseradish and mustard; add seasonings and mix until smooth. Place each beef slice flat on a separate piece of plastic wrap. Spread the cream cheese mixture evenly over the slices. Starting at the narrow end, roll each slice tightly and seal in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least two hours. To serve, remove the rolls from plastic and slice into 1/2-inch rounds. Pierce each roll with a toothpick and arrange on a platter. Yield: 3 dozen pieces.

Stuffed Grape Leaves

1-lb jar brined grape leaves

1 lb lean ground meat*

16-oz can crushed tomato

1 C long-grain rice, raw

1 C olive oil

1 bunch chopped scallions

1 C mint leaves

1 t grated lemon zest

2 T lemon juice

water to cover

Remove the grape leaves from the brine and rinse under water, taking care not to tear them; set aside. In a mixing bowl, combine meat, tomato, rice, olive oil, scallions, mint and lemon zest. Place a grape leaf on a flat surface with the vein side up and stem facing you. Place 1 T of filling mixture at the base of the leaf; wrap and fold in the sides to create a 2-inch-long packet. Repeat with remaining grape leaves, placing them seam-side down in a saucepan. Drizzle with lemon juice and fill saucepan with water just to cover. Cover the leaves with a plate to weigh them down. Bring to a boil over high, then cover pan and reduce heat to low. Simmer until rice and meat are cooked through, about 1 hour. Serve warm or cold. Yield: 4 dozen stuffed grape leaves. *Note: this usually calls for lamb, but will only work with very lean ground lamb, so a mixture of half very lean beef with ground lamb is a good choice.

Send questions, comments and recipe suggestions to capeflavors@comcast.net.