Q&A covers winning wines, tariffs, and a good gadget

Let’s have a Q & A today. Josephine asked about No. 3 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list, San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere 2015, rated 97. This is a new release, as the producer withholds its wine for aging. At the $90 opening, it was a very good value. Hype pushed it to $165 in March. I also found it odd that their Le Lucere Riserva ‘15 was rated only 91 points at $181. You would be better served to find the 94-point 2013 Riserva at $115 if buying a six-pack. Just entered its window, will cellar through 2030. Best for me would be their DOCG 2013, which garnered 93 points and is selling for $60/bottle if you buy a case. Your local shop can find these, probably at a slight premium. Dark ruby-colored, cherry and barrel spice nose leads to cherry and plum palate riding a firm frame with enough acidity to support through a long, clean finish. I think 2013 was overlooked because a poor growing season with a wet spring labeled all as suspect. The best regional producers did a very good job overall.

Rachel asked about WS winner Kistler RRV Vine Hill 2017. Regulars know I normally prefer the big old-style Chards. The trend is lean, cool climate. Kistler deserves its accolades. Winemaker Jason Kesner captures the style with panache. This high-acidity model is a good food wine. The 96-point WS hype drove its price from $70 in 2019 to $149 in March 2021. I don’t recommend it at this price. Smart shoppers can buy a Puligny Montrachet such as Domaine Leflaivre 2014 at $136. Search for White Burgundy labeled Savigny-les-Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses or Aloxe-Corton for better pricing. Remember Pouilly Fuissé in its heyday? It was frequently the only moderately priced White Burgundy on restaurant lists, with a name only “the cool folks” could pronounce. As large quantities were grown and shipped, quality, generally speaking, slipped. Finally, in 2017, the first Maconnais premier cru designations, with all the regulation that entails, were awarded. All were located in Pouilly Fuissé. Chateau Fuissé Pouilly Fuissé le Clos 2016, 92 McD, just entered its window and can be found around $60. 2018 had better reviews at $80, but needs time. In short, Rachel, take a look at the 2016 top Pouilly Fuissés, a far better buy. I also think either Latour or Louis Jadot is excellent value in the $25-$30 range, consistent 88-89 points, 87 in poor years.

Alfred asked how much will wine tariffs, imposed in 2019 and added in January 2021, impact pricing. As far as I know, USA dropped the whiskey war with Great Britain March 5. However, tariffs with the rest of the EU were left intact. Curious people can read a recent Mark Busch article here: thehill.com/social-tags/trump-tariffs. US Wine Trade Alliance claims sales of U.S. wines affected by tariffs were down 53 percent. The irony here is the tariffs were imposed due to subsidies to Boeing and Airbus. Why pick on us poor wine bibbers? As Willy Sutton said, “That’s where the money is.” A fair retaliation would have been to blast airplane prices and air travel. Most of us know those mismanaged companies involved would likely have gone chapter 11 or 7, restricting our duly elected from returning home to rouse the malcontents and reload their honey pots. Perhaps it is the impetus behind the latest Amtrak 2 ½ hour proposed boondoggle.

Last for best. Saul was curious about WinePro2. Being the tightwad, value-seeking guy I am, I must admit, I decided $200 to aerate young wine with pure oxygen was not worth the candle. Boy, was I wrong. This tool works very well. It far exceeds the effort of a previous attempt called Vinturi which used air. No surprise, since air only contains 21 percent oxygen. Wine normally contains 20-25 percent of the dissolved oxygen possible. The Vinturi raised that to 40 percent and WinePro2 approached 80 percent using a dissolved oxygen meter. Longtimers are aware it is oxidation that releases many of the favorable aromas and flavors that are repressed by other inert gases. For those who are into gadgets that work well, this is a very good purchase.