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Prices may be rising on European wines; buy now if you can

May 29, 2021

On Monday, we’ll be observing Memorial Day. Since this weekend is the kickoff for the summer season, the recent changes in COVID-19 policy should result in a banner year as pent-up demand for fun at the beach is unleashed. The national news is filled with stories concerning a lack of employees to fill service jobs, rising inflation and supply chain issues. I’m unsure how that may impact our mostly service-generated, seasonal economy. Our local businesses have shown their resilience in dealing with many crippling restrictions during the past year. I’m guessing they will also cope well with the incipient issues during summer 2021. Please try to be cooperative by allowing some leeway when visiting our terrific local shops. Replacing so many and holding the price line under the current conditions will likely be problematic. Several acquaintances in the restaurant business mentioned that although they can now operate at 100 percent capacity, the lack of adequate staff has reduced their ability to render good service. A few customers have become upset that they couldn’t be waited on immediately when they saw an empty table. Most are understanding. No operator wants to turn away one thin dime after last season’s desperate struggle to stay open. That said, I feel confident those who made it through 2020 are competent to get things back to the new normal. Best wishes for your success.

Petit Manseng is a wine rarely reviewed. Last year, Virginia’s Bluestone Vineyards kicked butt at the San Fran Chronicle wine competition where 1,000 vineyards had entered 6,700 selections. All the wines entered from Bluestone took awards, winning two golds, two silvers and four bronze ratings. I was fortunate to be able to examine their gold medal winner, the 2018 Petit Manseng. The profile is high and dry, 13.8 ABV with 0* sugar. This is a rare combination for white wine. Fermenting in 100% French oak provides a delightful creamy mouthfeel with a very clean finish, 88 McD. The 2019 came in at 14.8% ABV, with 8 g/L acidity and 0.8% residual sugar. I liked the balance here much better. Look for orchard fruit nose, which continues on the palate. Ten months on lees provided a creamy-smooth palate. Around $23, it rates McD 90. They also produced a buttery Shenandoah Valley 2017 Chardonnay and a stainless steel, no-oak chardonnay in 2019. The panel found comparing the two instructive.

Mount Veeder Winery Napa Cab 2018, 91 McD under $40, is a fine buy. I find this product to be consistently underrated. Napa Cab consumers probably know that finding a top-flight bottle at this price range is complicated. That is especially true of Mt. Veeder, which is neglected by many writers. Although it is labeled Cab, it is made in the Bordeaux blend tradition with addition of Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec as each specific vintage suggests to the tasting panel. The only naming requirement in California law is the wine must contain at least 75% juice of its name. A brief swirl in the glass shows blackberry, currant, black cherry and herbal nose nicely balanced on the palate with proper acidity and fine tannins. Berry flavors including cranberry plus a touch of chocolate and tea notes are found in its finish. The wine is already drinking nicely but will age several years.

Comité Champagne released bottle sales for 2020 as down 18%. They tried to put a better light on those dire numbers by claiming they expected a 30% fall. This spring, the weather in Europe was horrendous. I’m advising those who are Francophiles that when it comes to bubbly, they should lay in a supply. I’m guessing that the confluence of these two issues will likely prompt “les amis” to raise prices. So far, the drastic decline in the dollar has aggravated price inflation relative to the Euro. I’m unsure how long this will remain the case. Those who can, should hedge. Worst case? You have well-aged wine to drink in your bunker.

Closing on a repetitive note – please refrain from exclaiming “Happy Memorial Day.” This holiday commemorates all those who have given their lives to support our country. As the haunting refrain of “Taps” echoes across the land on Monday, please take a moment to honor their sacrifice and to ask your God to protect our country.

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