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Wine storage basics deserve another look

June 5, 2021

A new reader asked about storing wine. That is an involved story, as longtimers know. It is also an important story. I’ve decided to supply a short tickler to see how much interest exists in a rehash of previous storage info. Let me know if you are interested. Long-term cellarers are best served to employ a 50-55-degree dark, dry space, Susan. Nearly all wine stores well in these conditions. Why, one may ask? As most scientists agree, over the millennia, peeps discovered the temperature deep within caves or over 4 feet below ground level remains constantly cool in temperate climates where most consumable vegetation grows. This constant temperature also provides much better living conditions in winter. Upon returning to these comfortable digs after a season of hunting and gathering, these people probably observed that some foods left in these conditions were still edible. Computer models indicate a brewer or two, in their desire to have product all year long, and likely through trial & error and stories told by Granny around the hearth, improved methods to store more wine with less resultant vinegar. The very observant among them noted that some of those stored beverages actually tasted better. These entrepreneurs charged the hunters and gathers a premium, with the advice of Madison Avenue types, who also likely prompted the invention of bottles and corks, another story entirely, and Alka-Seltzer. 

Those storing for near-term consumption will store sparklers around 40 degrees F, most other whites 50 F and reds at 60 F. A fun study is to chill wine to a measured lower temperature. Then decant and sample it as its temperature incrementally rises. Not advised for bubbly, as the mousse is integral to its appeal and those mean-spirited CO2 bubbles, in addition to polluting, carry off the aromas quite quickly. Also, since old reds will swiftly lose their already declining bouquet after pouring, it is a poor practice with them. With aromatic young reds and whites suffering from a “closed nose,” this enjoyable exercise does work well and is very informative. Most needn’t employ a chiller to achieve the best temperature. A regular fridge, shelved properly, can be set to 55 degrees and will easily store six to eight cases. A little proper planning, time in a 37-degree fridge or resting at ambient temps will allow us to approach the proper serving temperature. Those wishing to add complexity can use centigrade. I always wonder when researching wine chillers why so many can store 34, 44, 51 or 164 bottles. I’m guessing the engineers are not aware how wine is sold. One would think that a 164-bottle/3 temp. unit that costs around $5K would be engineered for 168 bottles. 

New release Concha y Toro Don Melchor 2018, McD 93, $128, may be the best reviewed by others since the 2010, 94 McD, $88, which is in the heart of its drinking window. Regulars know I’m an aficionado of Don Melchor going back to the early 1990s, and I’m always on the lookout for a bargain. The 2014, 96 McD, is their best ever for my money. Its window according to my notes is 2018-30. I located several offers under $116 and two under $100. The 2011, 93 McD, 2016-30 window, can be easily found under $100. Gather eight of your sybarite Cab-loving pals and palettes, and buy four bottles for under $480. That’s $60 PP for a Father’s Day experience he’ll never forget. Dad doesn’t need any more socks, slippers and clothes that don’t fit or look like they belong to Oscar, Homer or the Cat in the Hat. Please sample these before, not with, the burgers and dogs.

According to Don Kavanaugh Winesearcher, paraphrased, scammers pretending to be legit online wine and spirits shops are offering inventory for sale, often at a markedly lower price than normal. As is common with other types of wine fraud, big-name wineries and sought-after bottles like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Sassicaia and Henri Jayer are often used to tempt the unsuspecting mark into the fraud. Let your local wine store pal live. Ask that they bring in wine for you. It takes a bit of work, and we should be happy to support an upcharge.

 

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