Pairing wines with barbecue-season faves? Yes, it can be done

Let’s take a look at a few selections this week for the summer grilling season and the upcoming July Fourth holiday. Many folks who normally eschew brats seem compelled to burn some on the 4th. I used the broad category which includes the hot dog. Contrary to the general opinion, reds for the grill, the best choices for wine to accompany wurst are full-bodied, high-acidity whites and lighter Beaujolais-type reds. Brats and wursts are a similar generic description of various sausages. Since it is apt to be warm, what with global warming and that it is summer, let’s talk about refreshing, cool whites. Dry Riesling, Chablis and Gruner Veltliner may come to mind, but I have found that most varietal white wines which originated in Alsace, Germany, and much of the old Austro-Hungarian empire will fill the bill. If burgers and dogs are your go-to, you may think beer, and we have plenty of wonderful local brewers in the Cape Region. I find the white wine choice to be more refreshing, but I also have a minor aversion to drinking wine from a plastic cup. Compromise, sure, why not? Broken glass in the yard, no thanks.

American holiday, American wine, and those who normally choose dry Mosel Riesling will be happy to learn that Oregon is producing some wonderful dry Riesling these days. Anne Amie Vineyards is one of the wineries Barbara and I visited. They provide an opportunity to try a well-made selection of representative Oregon wines. They produce several levels of Pinot Noir in addition to Pinot Gris, Brut Rosé, Estate Dry Riesling, Gamay Noir and a Pinot Blanc, among others. Most go well with brats and other grilled recipes. Generally, the price range is $17-$25 with the three top dogs running mid-$40s. A chance for your local wine shop pal to shine would be a mixed case of two each. An added benefit is that all their recent production rated 87 McD or better. The Estate Dry Riesing, 89 McD under $20, shows a true Riesling grape nose enhanced by lemon zest, ripe pineapple and a typical mild shale, oily back note. The palate shows quince and key lime through a long, dry finish. Ponzi may be easiest to locate. The 2018 rates 90 points at $21. Look for lemon zest, jasmine and salt air aromas with honey and starfruit flavors riding a zesty, tart frame though a clean finish. Love the folks at Trisaetum for their quality wines. Their Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry Riesling 2018, McD 91 around $35, is in its window. Green apple and pear on the nose, lychee and lemon flavors on a round, rich, minerally acid frame. Somehow, serving a dog with a $35 bottle of wine appeals to me.

Want something sparkly for that Fourth of July American dog with mustard and ketchup but you’re having your United Nations pals over? Start with a Spanish Cava or an Alsatian Gewurztraminer. Yeah, I know, there goes McD pushing Gewurtz again. Trust me on both ideas. Pairing mustard, ketchup, maybe onions and kraut is difficult but I have done the due diligence. Try Segura Viudas Vintage Grand Cru Cava, consistent McD 88-89 since 2009, under $15 it’s stealing. Bright sparkler with lovely bead, hazelnut and citrus nose, bright lemon-lime palate, and apple back notes. Also goes well with Old Bay and spicy grilled shellfish or chicken. You can rarely go wrong with Trimbach Gewurztraminer. The 2018 is McD 90 under $21. If you want to see it at its best, their Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2014, McD 93, one of the best recent vintages, is findable around $55. Lychee nut and rose aromas. Rich, spicy with subtle peach flavors, medium dry with fresh acidity; the fruit carries through its long, clean finish. Those who enjoy Gewurztraminer keep in mind it has wonderful cellaring potential, as do most European Rieslings and other whites, 15 years and more. Recent invocations to avoid well-cellared wines, by certain writers I normally support, have not swayed me one bit. There is room for nouveau and well-cellared on my table, and “never the twain shall meet.” To complete the trite phrases for this week, “Variety is the spice of life.”