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It’s the season for sparklers, so let’s talk Prosecco

July 10, 2021

Daughter Marguerite’s wedding went off swimmingly. A good thing, because the temperature was in the mid-90s. Fortunately it was held outdoors with a large swimming pool available. Marguerite married local musician Jimmy Davis. Those who observe our local music scene have likely enjoyed Hot Sauce Band, an energetic, fun group of very talented local musicians. Happily for the attendees, they were the house band for the wedding and along with several other local talents, including Bro Daniel, provided quite a show. Anyone looking to do an outdoor wedding may wish to check out the Tune & Fork Inn, in Milford. It is a beautiful 5-acre property surrounding the refurbished mansion of William T. Watson, a former Delaware governor. Watson actually was not elected for the office. He was speaker of the Senate and assumed leadership at the death of Delaware’s 48th governor, Joshua H. Marvil, in April 1895. History buffs might be interested in reading of the bitter dispute that followed regarding the Senate seat. I found it fascinating.  Once the ceremony and endless pictures were over, many of the younger set took a swim. The bride and groom, most of the oldies, and Barbara and I did not, opting to remain in the traditional wedding garb til the end. Somehow, we managed not to melt. 

Rich emailed me regarding Prosecco. He wanted to know why the wide disparity in pricing. This is a bit of a tough question without more specificity. It is worth a brief discussion since ‘tis the season. There are many levels of this lovely sparkler. The wine is primarily made from a varietal grape named Glera. Most of the best of it comes from a region north of Venice named Conegliano-Valdobbiadene. In 2008, the regulators added Friuli-Venezia Giulia, an adjacent region, to its approved label list. Most are made by the Charmat process, acquiring 3 atmospheres of pressure that drive its bead (bubbles). By comparison, beer is 1.5 A, and most champagne is 5-6 A. Generally, it is made as Brut, 0-12 g/L RS (residual sugar) about 1.5 g. sugar/glass; Extra Dry, 12-17g/L RS; or Dry (Secco) 17-32g /L RS, about 1 gram sugar per glass. Serve them around 40 degrees F in a tulip glass or flute for best effect. Prosecco is very aromatic. Temperature and the shape of these glasses help retain the bouquet, which is integral to its enjoyment. Following is the pecking order most reviewers follow for label readers. Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG is best; there are only 265 acres in this commune. Most claim it the best site worldwide for Glera. It is followed by Prosecco Conegliano VBB Superiore Rive DOCG; Prosecco Conegliano VBB Superiore DOCG, McD 92 for the Mionetto or Bisol Crede under $21; and Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG (formerly Colli Asolo) and Prosecco DOC.

Keeping in mind that the DOCG from Cartizze is the best by acclamation, here are names to look for: Adami, Ruggeri, Le Colture, Bisol, Col Vetoraz and Villa Sandi. Be sure the label reads DOCG and Conigliano BCC as well. Insiders refer to these as the Italian Grand Cru sparklers. Guildsom has an excellent piece on these:  guildsomm.com/public_content/features/articles/b/bryce-wiatrak/posts/cartizze-vineyard-prosecco. Most of these top dogs will set one back under $40, the entry level for Champagne. Champagne is far more labor intensive, and much of the best will age and improve for quite a while, 50 years or more. Prosecco will cellar and improve, but the window in most cases is much shorter, five years in most cases.

With that out of the way, let’s deal with reality. Quite a few will use Prosecco to make an Aperol (bitter liquor similar to Campari) Spritz, or a Bellini using peach juice (try fresh, the canned stuff doesn’t do it justice), same with Mimosas and OJ. Aggressive mixologists might enjoy a Hugo made with St. Germain elderflower syrup, mint and a dash of soda. My two favs, though, are the Bakewell Fizz, 1.5 oz. Amaretto di Saronno, 3/4 oz. maraschino liquor and 4 oz. prosecco, one is enough for most people; and the Raspberry Limoncello Prosecco, 3-to-1 Prosecco to Limoncello plus fresh ripe raspberries, yum. Those who enjoy these, please don’t buy Brut or DOCG. A waste of money. Extra dry will suffice, and you can find a bunch of them under $20. Zonin Cuvee 1821, Valdo, Kirkland Asolo, Bisol Desiderio Jeio, and Mionetto di Treviso are names to search for.

Just heard about a blockbuster deal available July 7-14: Wine Works is selling 2019 Walter Hansel Cahill Lane Chardonnay for $27. Tony Galloni rated it 95 points.

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