Shout ‘hurrah’ for a deeper dive into Syrah

The response on last week’s Syrah article was quick and above normal. The gist was, what about Washington and Australia? I was surprised at the interest shown and am extending the info stream to accommodate those who E’d me and just maybe to tout Syrah a bit more. An issue with Syrah is it grows well in so many microclimates and soils. The result is, unlike many varietal grapes which thrive in specific microclimates, there isn’t a typical Syrah profile to point toward. This can be confusing to newbies, who may find a Syrah they enjoy and be surprised when another selection bears little resemblance. 

Let’s start with a little housekeeping. Syrah, Sirah, Shiraz and Hermitage are all names for a varietal wine. Most experts agree this grape originated in the Rhone Valley, Southeastern France during Roman times and is a cross between Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche. When introduced to Australia in the mid-1800s, for an unknown reason, it was named Shiraz.  Typically, Old World Syrah is dry, rich, full-bodied, showing dark fruits, crushed pepper, olives, roast meat, tobacco and spice notes, while so-called New World Shiraz leans toward slightly sweeter (more ripe fruit), herbal/floral with chocolate and leather notes. U.S. Syrah is often New World style, although many from the Central Coast tend toward the European model.  This is very broad brush. Petit Sirah is not Syrah and for another day. In the past 50 years, Syrah has found a strong foothold in California, Washington state and South Africa. It is just now gaining ground in South America and Italy. This is not to say there was none grown there previously, but that the plantings were sparse.

Generally, I’m looking to the Rocks District, Milton-Freewater, Walla Walla for Washington Syrah, especially those grown in areas with rocky, gravelly and volcanic soil. Those from the lower Columbia Valley, with its more fertile soil, tend to be fruity and lack the minerally flavors I prefer. That said, Betz Family Red Mountain La Cote Rousse 2017 garnered a 94 McD @ $60; it and Gramercy Cellars Columbia Valley 2017, 92 McD and only $45, were exceptional buys. Gramercy produces several Syrahs, be sure to read labels carefully. I saw some on sale at Wineworks for $28. That would be a Grand Theft Wino buy. It is in the heart of its drinking window. Gramercy also produces Lagniappe Syrah; the 2017 at $65 is fine, but why pay more? The top known names in Washington Syrah are probably Cayuse owned by Christophe Baron and Reynvaan Family’s Stonessence, both of which will set you back north of $100. At that price point, I’m going French. Try to find Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Maison Bleue 2018 or ‘19, mid-$60s. Generally speaking, the Washington state 2018s, although very drinkable, are not up to par compared to previous vintages.

Penfolds is probably the best large-scale Aussie Shiraz producer. Their top-of-line Penfolds Grange Bin 95 has been the top name for years. It has two drawbacks. It needs longtime cellaring; the 99-point 1998 is only approaching the midpoint of its 2008-38 window, and the 97-point 2004’s window is 2021-34. Normally there is very little price appreciation until they are over 15 years old. Recently the release point has been $650-$750/bottle. Big-buck buckaroos should note, with only two exceptions, all vintages have fallen off after release. They also recoup in a year or so. Those who can ride Blue Origin can buy a six-pak of Bin 111A 2016 for $8,000, ready in 2040 or so. Maybe free shipping. Rated 100 points by everybody, myself excepted due to lack of opportunity. For the rest of us, check out Penfolds Bin 28 Kalima Shiraz 2017, 91 McD, or the ‘18, 93 points, consistently 91 McD or better since 2013, and findable under $30. For a special treat, their St. Henri Shiraz 2016 is 94 McD at $90. As regulars may have guessed, I’m going for three Kalima nearly every time. Ruby with garnet rim, plums, blackberries, sandalwood, pepper, vanillin bouquet. Nicely balanced but tannin slightly elevated indicating good longevity. Plum, coffee and black olive flavors; long, clean finish. Two Buck Chuck’s Boom Boom Syrah, not so much. Especially in the mid-teens. Mr. Smith sold this label and it shows.