Last year, I wrote a brief piece on Black California winemakers and the paucity of material written about them. This was prompted by an Oliver Styles piece regarding an en premier tasting – buying wine from barrel sampling, pre bottling and release, which he said is “Not for the faint of heart, novice winos or those who don’t handle disappointment.” In part, he wrote that the most interesting stuff came from the discussions that went on continuously between tasters. He mentioned (slightly paraphrased) that “three middle-aged white people in a prandial fug” after 60 new-release samples may need comment editing. Read the full article here: winesearcher.com/m/2019/04/turning-a-critical-eye-on-wine-critics. As an aside, I wonder how the editors missed the white people and age reference, non-PC comments. Our eagle-eyed editorial staff might at least admonish me for employing these non-PC literary faux pas.
There are several winemakers in California who are people of color. Oddly, a few are women. Since African American winos represent approximately $1.2 trillion, comparable to Canada’s economy in value, I used oddly in the sense that so few have written of them. I promised to look into some of these folks’ offerings and background, and get back to you. No easy task, I might add.
Although Iris Duplantier Rideau retired, this New Orleans-born Creole/African American, author of "From Black to White: One Life Between Two Worlds," is reputed to be the first Black woman to own a winery in the U.S. While this appears to be accurate, I’m uncertain about entire U.S., because California is new to the biz compared to East Coast, Finger Lakes and Ohio Valley production. Nevertheless, she was definitely the doyenne in California with her founding of Rideau Winery and Vineyard in 1989, near Solvang in the Santa Inez Valley, after a diverse succession of successful careers. Remarkable first because she had no experience in the wine biz and then because her efforts with Rhone wines quickly became award-winners. Equally odd, especially for the Cali press, Ms. Iris was very rarely included as a Rhone Ranger. Later, she had the good sense to hire Adrienne St. John as winemaker. Her family has owned Pedroncelli in Sonoma for 90 years. Adrienne is no legacy brat. She earned a chem degree at Cal-Poly, then worked extensively at various wineries prior to Rideau. She continued as winemaker under new owners Martin and Isabelle Gauthier. I recommend all try to join their club. I don’t remember any of the broad selection of wines produced under Adrienne’s guidance which scored less than 88 McD. Look for Rideau’s Gary Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2014 to current. The Viognier, especially 2016, ‘17 and ‘19, are 91-92 McD around $38, with fresh melon, white flowers and honeycomb aromas riding a nicely balanced, mineral-driven frame.
Mac and Lil McDonald are the owners/winemakers of Vision Cellars in Sonoma, and they also produce wine from Santa Lucia Highlands and Las Alturas. I think their Cole Ranch Pinot Noir from Mendocino is 90 McD around $40. The Sonoma County PN, $45, 90 McD, is full-bodied with ripe flavors and nose of cherries, pie spice, plum and mulberry through a clean, lingering finish. Mac plays off on the old McDonald joke and readily admits he knew little about wine but came from a long line of Texas bootleggers. Quite a raconteur but a better winemaker.
Albarino is delightful with spring fare. My recent experience with Raul Perez Atalier A Cruz das Animas from Rias Baixas, Spain, was sublime. The 2018 at 92 McD points, ‘19 at 91 and ‘20 at 92 can all be found under $30. The name means “The Crossroads of Souls.” Opens to melon, apple and pear aromas; on the palate lemongrass, citrus, briny saline minerality. Finishes long and smooth, with a bit of lime.
I attached this article at the end because I’m looking for response and didn’t wish to influence any opinions on the recommended wines. The thinking expressed may not appeal to all readers because it deals with racial issues I had to explore due to the initial topic. It concerns microaggressions in Sonoma: vinepair.com/articles/black-winemaker-microaggressoins-sonoma. As you know, I have visited this region several times. My opinions and observations about diversity diverge. I normally don’t count, while looking for people who “look like me.” I have traveled extensively in several non-white countries, and only felt uncomfortable once, in Baltimore. Perhaps it was the gunfire!
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Email John at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
