Syrah wines and smoky grilled meats make perfect pairings

Syrah is a wonderful choice for the lazy, smoky days of summer. Those who are unfamiliar may grab a Cab, a Pinot Noir, one of those wonderful Tuscans or Cotes du Rhones that take so long to age. Sadly, these are frequently overwhelmed by the flavors of scorched meat and smoke. Those who have tossed a well-seasoned, butterflied lamb leg or big, thick, tender, marbled hunk of beef on the barbie would be well served with what some call Shiraz, Balsamina, Candive, Hignin noir, Marsanne noir, Sirac, Syra or Sereine depending on country of origin. For our purposes, let’s stick with Syrah or Shiraz. Syrah isn’t the same as Petite Sirah, for which the actual name is Durif, a cross of Syrah with Peloursin
. Syrah is a black grape varietal, a clonal mix of two obscure clones, Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche. It is ubiquitous. The best-known producers are found in Rhône Valley, France; S. Africa; California AVAs; the Columbia Valley in Oregon and Washington; and Hunter, McLaren and Barossa valleys, Australia. 

Syrah grapevines love very hot days with cool nights and literally can grow on rocky granite escarpments. Common Syrah descriptors include blackberry, dark chocolate, prominent tannin and acidity. Grilled, smoky red meat loves tannin and acidity. Where the climate is moderate, you may find mint, eucalyptus, smoked meat and black pepper notes; and in hot regions, licorice, cloves, espresso, mocha and dark chocolate. Syrah from the Old World, France, Italy, Spain and Africa, in addition to brighter acidity, usually shows earthy forest floor and herbaceous notes, while those from the U.S., Australia and South America tend toward olive, pepper, clove, vanilla, mint, licorice, chocolate, allspice, rosemary, cured meat, bacon fat, tobacco, herbs and smoke. Nearly all are barrel aged. Syrahs often are the darkest of red wines (indicating tannin). Those who enjoy bleu cheese burgers, barbecue, venison, or roast lamb with garlic and aromatics such as herbes de Provence, composed of lavender, fennel and thyme, will truly enjoy Syrah.

If you are new to Syrah, go Cali and nostalgic with Fess Parker Santa Barbara Syrah. Typically under $25, it has garnered 89 or better McD points since 2013. The 2016 and ‘18 are best, 91 McD both. Those who want to stay with FP can move up to Rodney’s Vineyard Syrah 2018, 93 McD under $58. Black fruit, roast lamb and black pepper nose, opens on the palate to gamy charred lamb, savory herbs, roast plum. Finishes with coffee and dark chocolate. 

Best-value Aussie is Mollydooker (means left-handed) The Boxer Shiraz McLaren Vale 2020, 92 McD under $30. Initially their chosen names attracted me: Velvet Glove, Carnival of Love, Blue-eyed Boy, Enchanted Path, Gigglepot, Sip It Forward and Two Left Feet. Their story: Sparky Marquis and Sarah Watts married, started with a few bucks, nearly went broke. Then refused a big corporate money offer so they could stay private and founded Mollydooker. Nearly went broke again, but both families went all in. A local businessman bailed them out. As luck would have it, three months later, Wine Advocate chose The Boxer as best-value red in the world, Two Left Feet second, Maitre D’ fourth and The Violinist best-value white in the world. The wines sold out in 19 days, and all debts were paid off. Since then, it’s been Katy bar the door. Huge success! At one point they had the most RP 94-point-plus wines in the world. The mousse on the top for me is that both are left-handed, like me.

Let’s finish with an affordable, good-value product. M. Chapoutier, whom I frequently recommend, delivered Ferraton Pere et Fils Saint-Joseph La Source 2019, 91 McD, which will run you about $22, or 1.5L $35. Dark, nearly black color with plum, blackberry, coffee, graphite, smoked meat aromas and some barrel notes. Blackberry and plum plus barrel spice repeat on palate; add in some black pepper, coffee, anise and a touch of smoke. Finishes long and slightly tannic, indicating it will cellar. Their Ermitage Le Meal 2019 is spectacular, 95 McD, reminds of the 2015. Recent release 2019 needs at least two years in cellar. Wait to buy. Reviews were great, may come down.