Dine on the road less taken

As a weekly columnist, it’s often a challenge to figure out what will - or will not - hit a nerve. A couple of years ago, what started out as a lighthearted culinary romp through some of our neighboring towns ended up generating a flood of emails and texts questioning, criticizing and even adding to my list of off-the-beaten-path finds. In spite of my brilliantly crafted fine-print disclaimer citing space restrictions for not including every last restaurant, truck and carryout in the tristate area, I did feel a few pangs of guilt. At least for a few minutes.

One of those is Ami Rae’s The Backyard in Milton. Situated on Route 16 just as you enter Milton from the east, this friendly spot is known for hearty breakfasts and cleverly crafted lunches. Just across the street is the relatively new kid in town, Beaches Seafood. Properly prepared and steamed hardshells certainly qualify Beaches as a hidden gem.

Venturing north to Dover, Chef/owner Dennis Forbes’ Cool Springs Fish Bar is truly one of the best seafood spots in the state. Forbes prepares your food in a totally open kitchen surrounded by bar seats. Scoring one of those is tantamount to digging up the Holy Grail. And if you’re feeling a bit less formal, his daughter hosts Restaurant 55 burger joint right next door. Don’t leave without a cupcake!

Waaayyy down south in Seaford is one of the best French joints I have ever visited. Chino and Karen Pedemonte’s Bon Appetit checks all the boxes for refreshingly unpretentious country French. It’s well worth the 45-minute or so drive. Also in Seaford is Dona Maria’s Pupuseria. Not unlike Fredy Garcia and Joaquin Cortez’ Cabañas Salvadorean restaurant across from Bethany Blues Lewes, Dona Maria’s features pupusas - warm corn tortillas stuffed with pretty much anything from cheese to beans, to beef and pork. Tamales and fried plantains also make the required appearances on the menu.

Fenwick has a number of shining stars that include Yuzu Sushi Bar. Chef Yanni and crew are battin’ a thousand not only with rolls but some cleverly conceived entrees. A few blocks north is Jimmy’s Kitchen in Ocean Bay Plaza (no relation to Jimmy’s Grille). Every day in season, the lanky and talkative Jimmy pilots the flattop griddle like a 747 … until he runs out of stuff. The Nor’easter breakfast will fill you for several days. Rain or shine, there’s always a line.

If you blink you will miss Pomodoro Pizzeria in downtown Bethany Beach. Italian natives Rose and Brian Conte know their sauces and they know their cheese. The moment I took my first bite, I was reminded of some of the best pizza I have ever eaten: at Louie & Ernie’s tiny storefront in the Bronx. Thanks to Rose and Brian, I no longer have to suffer the Cross-Bronx Expressway to get my pizza fix. Pomodoro’s is cuddled up to Dickie Heidenberger’s emporium of frozen custard on the ocean block of Garfield Parkway.

One more stop before I present you with my disclaimer: Dagsboro hosts Porto Pizza & Grill on Route 20. Yes, the pizzas are quite good, but the salads are the stars of the show. 

Impossibly fresh and crispy every time, with some very good dressings. And the cheesesteak is a sleeper for sure; get it with mushrooms.

OK: Here’s the long-awaited disclaimer: I’m sure I left out somebody’s favorite place! So venture out and discover your own hidden gems. Who knows what you might find. If it’s good, tell me about it.