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It’s not too late to select fine wines for first-rate moms

May 13, 2023

Happy Mother’s Day! A bit premature, but you still have a day or two to grab a great gift for your mom. Those planning on a trip to a restaurant should consider Kaisy’s Delights. There are two locations, in Lewes and Rehoboth Beach, designed to resemble Euro cafés. Last Sunday was my first visit, and I am embarrassed to admit it; Rehoboth Foodie advised me on his Saturday program on WGMD a while ago. Do not let the Austro-Hungarian tag cause you to dismiss this gem. It serves a wide-ranging menu with breakfast, lunch, and several dinner items plus a fine selection of Euro-type desserts. A comprehensive list of coffees, smoothies and beverages is available. We were four in my party, and each entrée and beverage was well done, attractively presented, with favorable QPR pricing, by pleasant, attentive servers. One in our party needs gluten-free, and there were several options available, including each sandwich item, that can be made GF. Those wishing to get the signature dessert pancake dish, the Kaiserschmarrn (aka Kaisy), done GF are advised to call ahead. These gluten-free pancakes were delicious. Regulars know I rarely recommend restaurants; this is not an ad, but a wholehearted endorsement from a well-pleased customer.

How about two fine Pinot Gris wines followed by a few excellent Pinot Noir selections? Sadly, Oregon PG does not get much ink. King Estate Pinot Gris Willamette Valley Oregon, 91 McD at $19, employed biodynamic-grown fruit, which means self-sustaining, low intervention, no chemicals, pesticides or post-harvest correcting. It was aged six months sur lie. Redolent of lemon, pink grapefruit, orange and a hint of hay, the citrus continues through the acid-bright palate. Nice summer sipper and an appealing food wine with white fish and crab. Those who enjoy this should know it has shelf life into 2026. You may be able to find a case discount. Elk Cove Estate PG 2020, $19, 93 McD, won 1 McD price point. Grapefruit, lemon curd, tangerine and papaya bouquet continues through palate supported with vibrant acidity, great now-2026. Van Duzer PN 2021 is not ready, but it is on sale for wise shoppers at $26. Rated 91 McD and should be a stunner. The Van Duzer Alchemy Pinot Noir 2017, 93 McD, is perfect and can be found at $70. This is a recent release of flagship wine from five barrels of production; go to the website, vanduzer.com. Bright cherry, vanilla, barrel spice and hints of violet aromas. The cherry and red fruit repeats and lingers on the palate supported with bright acidity and silky tannins over its long, smooth, flavor-filled finish. Initially, I thought the name Scar of the Sea Pinot Noir Vino de los Ranchos Santa Maria Valley was a gaffe. One sip of the 2022 caused me to research its pedigree and critic scores, and recognize how diverse the Cali PN production facilities are. The 2020, rated 95 RP, is gone but the 2022 is its rival, 93 McD, $30. Plucky in New Jersey has it at $27; your local wine store friend can get you some. A lovely, clear, pale-ruby color, it opens to raspberry and ripe strawberry with rose and tea accents. The palate reveals nuance of fresh herbs laced with minerals and pomegranate. The finish shows some spicy notes. If you can locate the San Luis Obispo 2020, 94 points, $33, it was excellent, showing raspberry and currant with hints of fennel and green peppercorn on the nose, raspberry repeats with cranberry and herbal accent on palate. The 2021 was given 95 by WE but I have not sampled it. 

Let’s finish with some great buys. Domaine Talmard Macon Chardonnay 2022, $17, 89 McD, is gold with copper highlights, opens with aromatic lemon zest, green apple and orange flowers. Citrus, slatey minerality and bright acidity make it a terrific seafood wine. Chateau LaGrange-St. Julien 2019 gets 93 McD; a 6-pak is worth cellaring at $323. Bright inky purple after aeration, oak, toast, cigar box, cassis, cherry and violet hint. Rich, ripe fruit with expected grippy tannin, dark chocolate and barrel spices. The color, fruit and tannin say it will be wonderful by 2025. Again, best wishes to all moms for a wonderful day.

 

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