Search out a good Tawny Port to accompany holiday treats

Due to the conflagration in the Middle East, Happy Chanukah! was a bit difficult to write this year. I would rather wish, “May the underlying reason for the holiday come true again.” With hope when the oil runs out or the lighting of the ninth candle of the Chanukiah occurs, we can find peace for all who live in Israel, Palestine and their environs. 

Traditional Chanukah foods are items fried in oil, such as latkes (potato pancakes) with sour cream and apple sauce to accompany meatless meals; beef brisket; and kugel, a noodle casserole that may have prompted mac and cheese. Kugel can be made sweet, so try cottage cheese, or with fragrant spices, veggies and cheese. Donuts for dessert and for my tastes, fried jelly donuts called sufganiyot. There are other desserts such as honey cake and rugelach, a twisted dough with fillings, usually nuts, chocolate, fruit puree or a combination. Those who love fruit cake might bake a tzimmes, an Ashkenazi favorite Since there is so much variety, following are wines you can find that will appeal to a wide audience.

Braised brisket loves Malbec, which is in vogue. Those choosing simmered brisket with horseradish sauce are on their own. Use a well-chosen selection both to marinate and accompany the entree. Catena Malbec is the low end of Catena Zapata’s range. You can buy any vintage from 2017 on for around $20, all rated 89 or 90 points. The 2019 can be had at Kreston in Wilmington, 91 McD, $20. Catena Zapata is one of Argentina’s top Malbec houses. Top of line are Estiba Reservada, $500 plus, not sampled; Argentino, 93 points, $120; Nicolas, 92 McD, $120; and Adrianna River Stones, 95 McD, since 2014 no poor years and available at $200. For my money, cook with $20 Catena Malbec and serve their Angelica Zapata Alta 2017, available at Total Wine in Wilmington for $50, 93 McD and ready now. It is dark violet-colored (violet is not purple) and opens to dark berry, floral, black pepper and clove bouquet. On the balanced palate, plum jam, currants and barrel spices repeat. The long finish is complex and has harmony of flavors. Delicious! You remember my high opinion of Michel Rolland. His Clos de Los Siete  Malbec 2017, Vista Flores, Argentina, Is also available at Total Wines Wilmington, $26, 91 McD. Compares favorably to Catena and worth the few extra bucks. For donuts and sweet desserts, Moscato or Cava may be your best choice. I’m more of a tzimmes kind of guy, and 20-year-old Tawny Port is on the table because it also works with fruit, nuts, honey and chocolate. Banks in Millville has 87-point Cavit Moscato Provincia di Pavia IGT around $10. Not sampled, but avoid the 2020. Cupcake Moscato di Asti is fine for fans of sweet, low-alcohol, fizzy wine. Floral nose, and orange, peach, pineapple, melon palate, around $12; I have not had the 2022. The 2021 was better than Barefoot or Yellowtail.

The 20-year-old Tawny Port enhances a nut bowl, soft cheeses, chocolate and sweet desserts. The category is varied, but the blender and cellar master try to provide a consistent profile by blending from a large inventory sourced from many vintages and sites. Tawny Port is not made in the vineyard as much as it is winemaker’s art. Richard Mayson’s 2004 article in Decanter is so well done, I refer those interested: decanter.com/features/20-year-old-tawny-port-248055. The article encompasses more than 20 YO and is a top-flight opening gambit for those who wish to inform themselves on Tawnies and Port in general. Curious Port aficionados can read his book, fully revised, “Port and the Douro,” published by Michael Beasley. The following Ports may be difficult to locate in our area but can be requested. Sandeman, 92 McD, under $60 at Kreston in Wilmington, and Niepoort are my two favorites. Niepoort is more difficult to bring in, and the smugglers’ fees can get out of hand, $80, 93 McD. Delightful copper-orange color, with orange zest, roast nut and cookie nose. Dark chocolate, dried fruit, mocha, tannins, and hazelnut flavors with a clean acidity that balances its sweetness.