Capers pack a burst of flavor into a tiny bud

One of my favorite condiments is the oddly named, pickled plant-bud called a caper. While we’ve heard the word caper used to describe someone skipping or dancing around in a playful way, the term has also come to refer to a prank or illicit activity. There is nothing criminal about these tasty morsels, and they are well-suited for a variety of culinary applications.

Capers are small, dark green and roundish in shape. They are the immature, unopened flower buds from the sweet-smelling perennial shrub Capperis spinosa, which has been growing across the Mediterranean region for centuries. Capers range in size from as tiny as a baby pea to as large as an olive, with specific names for each of the various sizes.

The most prized are the smallest at 7 millimeters, called nonpareil, which translates as “having no equal” or unparalleled. (This is not to be confused the the movie theater candy of flat chocolate disks covered with white sugar pellets). Going up a size to 8 millimeters are the surfines, followed by capuchines, then capotes, fines, and the largest, called grusas, which are over 14 millimeters.

Once the buds are harvested, they are dried in the sun and preserved in a liquid such as brine, vinegar or wine, or dry-cured in salt. Capers are valued in recipes for their bright burst of flavor and tangy jolt, something like a salt bomb for your taste buds. Nonpareil capers have the best flavor and most delicate texture; the larger capers are not as tightly sealed, and can be tougher and more acidic.

The familiar Italian dishes that feature capers include chicken or veal piccata and pasta puttanesca. The French add them to the fish dish called skate meunière, where the capers stand out from the smoky flavors of brown butter. Anyone who has enjoyed a bagel with smoked salmon (nova lox) and cream cheese knows that capers are the finishing touch.

Most recipes cook capers little if at all, to keep their piquant essence sharp and crisp. You can add them directly to salads, toss them with roasted vegetables, and include them in creamy sauces for fish. Due to their saltiness and strong taste, you want to use capers sparingly, as in the deviled eggs in the photo, where a single caper is just enough to top the creamy yolk.

Capers can be used directly from the jar, but you will want to drain away the brine and rinse them to remove some of the salt and vinegar. Toss them onto a layer of paper towels to blot before proceeding with your recipe. If you have larger capers, you’ll want to chop them a bit, and always add them at the end of the cooking steps to keep them intact.

You can find capers at almost any grocery store, typically sold in small bottles and stocked near olives and cornichons. They will be offered in airtight containers that can be kept in the pantry for several months. Once the jar is opened, it should be kept in the refrigerator, making sure after each use that the buds are completely submerged in the liquid.

In addition to garnishing deviled eggs with capers, I’ve included recipes for a lemon sauce and a puttanesca sauce that feature capers. The tahini caper dressing works well with grain bowls or over a tossed salad. Try them folded into your next batch of shrimp or tuna salad, and don’t forget them as a garnish in ratatouille.

Lemon Caper Sauce

4 T unsalted butter
1 minced garlic clove
2 T lemon juice
1 t lemon zest
2 t drained, rinsed capers
1 t chopped parsley

Melt butter in a small skillet over low heat; add garlic, lemon juice, lemon zest and capers. Simmer for a couple of minutes without letting the butter brown; stir in parsley. Remove from heat and serve over sautéed veal or pork cutlets.

Tahini Caper Dressing

1/4 C tahini
2 T lemon juice
1 T capers
1 T caper brine
2 minced garlic cloves
1 T rice wine vinegar
1 1/2 t za'atar 
3 T olive oil

Whisk together tahini and lemon juice in a glass measuring cup. Add capers, brine, garlic, vinegar and za’atar; whisk to combine. Slowly add the olive oil in a stream, whisking constantly until the mixture is smooth and emulsified. Serve over salad, grilled fish or chicken, or grain bowls.

Puttanesca Sauce

1 T olive oil
3 minced garlic cloves
1 T chopped basil
2 T capers
1/4 C sliced Kalamata olives
1/2 t red pepper flakes
1 T olive brine
14-oz can crushed tomatoes
salt & pepper, to taste

Sauté garlic in olive oil over medium heat until fragrant. Add basil, capers, olives and red pepper; cook for about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low; add brine and tomatoes. Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot over pasta or grilled chicken.