Thinking ahead for holiday sparklers
In preparation for the rapidly approaching holidays, I am sampling sparklers. Came across Nicolas Maillart Platine Brut Premier Cru for $43. Extremely well-made Champagne with beautiful, creamy, fine bead, it opens with a mixed bouquet of flowers, citrus and yeast. On the palate, great fruit and spice. Apple, apricot, cardamom, ginger and hazelnut flavors ride a pleasing smoky mineral frame, 93 points.
Chateau Grand Traverse Whole Cluster Riesling, from Michigan, has been heavily touted recently. A cold-climate, structured, balanced, $14 Riesling with a floral, grapefruit nose that gives way to green apple, lime and quince flavors with proper mineral/acid balance to support the fruit. This is an interesting wine, 85 points, but I prefer European-style Riesling.
Remember Dave Phinney? I first put his name forward in 2001 with Orin Swift Cellars The Prisoner. Phinney is a terrific wine chef. He buys juices and blends them into great-tasting wine such as The Prisoner, Mercury Head, Papilllon, Abstract Red, Mannequin, etc., most of which have graced these pages over the past 13 years. Phinney has sold off The Prisoner and is now producing Locations wines specific to countries but nothing else including vintage of juice. Wines from Italy are labeled I, from Spain E (Espana) and France F. Now comes his new besty, Mr. Robert Parker, touting F2 French Red Wine, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cab. Sauv., Merlot, Cab Franc and anything else lying around in France, and awarding it 91 points.
Orin Swift Locations F2 is indeed a pretty good deal. Priced under $16, it has been fermented in large oak barrels, aged in oaken casks for 10 months, then bottled. In the glass, dark purple with red lip, currant, anise and menthol aromas. Lots of legs, subdued tannins and ripe fruit on palate with appropriate acidity and a medium-long, clean finish. Produced ready to drink.
Fans of Phinney would be well served to search out a bottle of his Joel Gott collaboration Shatter Grenache 2010. Aromas of ripe blackberry and blueberry modified by hints of lavender, spice and vanilla. Grenache with succulent blackberry flavors is enhanced with oak-driven spice that rides huge, smooth tannins and proper acid balance through a long, clean finish. McD 91 points when priced under $30. FYI, Orin = Dad’s middle name, Swift Mom’s maiden name.
Suckling, former WS critic now at JamesSuckling.com, just gave Veramonte Ritual Pinot Noir 2013 a 94. It's an Albert Huneeus and Paul Hobbs collaboration. Last year I wrote up the 2012 favorably. The 2013 are even better. Suckling wrote, "A dense and wonderfully long and silky pinot with strawberry, light hazelnut, and hints of lemon peel. Full body, yet lively and wired. This gives competition to Sea Smoke pinot but at half to one-third the price. Drink now." I agree, and all for a very modest $16. Suckling compared the 2013 favorably to a few cool-climate PN that normally cost $50 or more. If you like this, buy it soon; the price will escalate. Suckling is still well regarded, and I expect Ritual to be considered for WS “best of” award. For my money, Viña Ventisquero Grey Glacier Terrazas Single Block Leyda Valley 2011 is still your best of show in Chilean PN, 95 points and priced under $24.
Picks and pans: Philippine de St-Cyrille CdP Grande Reserve 2011 for $250 per case, 91 WS points. Lovely dark ruby color, cocoa, ganache and espresso bouquet, with blackberry plum flavors. Full body with earthy finish.
2009 Vincent Girardin Puligny Montrachet Vieilles Vignes touted by yours truly in spring 2011, is a winner. Many panned it. We bought at $30 with a 2013 window. It is excellent, and the price has escalated to $56 and climbing.
2011 Delaporte Sancerre, also recommended by me, not so good. Drink it now but allow it to sit a bit. Mine was on the way down already. Still palatable but 83 points. Big doin's this week. Philly tasting on Wednesday. Grist for next week.
