Jerry's bread pudding: Tender and full of rum

When you think of Jerry’s Seafood on Second Street in Lewes, you probably think of their signature dish, the Crab Bomb. Made from 10 ounces of jumbo lump crabmeat, this is a meal for those who love succulent crab seasoned with a hint of Old Bay. They also offer a Baby Bomb, a slightly smaller six-ounce version. Jack had one the last time we were there, which left him enough room to order dessert.

We enjoyed our seafood entrees (which we expected, based on the name above the door), and we were also delighted with dessert - rum raisin bread pudding. Tender, moist, full of rum-infused raisins and just the right degree of sweetness in the rich sauce. Fortunately, the server brought us two spoons.

As we scraped the last crumbs from the bottom of the bowl, we asked if the chef might be willing to share the recipe. The answer wasn’t exactly no. Chris, the restaurant’s owner, explained that the recipe simply isn’t written down anywhere; the chef makes it from memory. I asked if we might come to the kitchen one morning and collect the recipe by watching him make the dish.

A few days later, Chris called to offer a day we could come to the kitchen while the chef was handling breakfast service for the adjoining Blue Sea Cafe. We arrived early on a Monday morning, shortly after he’d prepped a tray of bacon and the hash browns were sizzling. We timed our visit after the early morning rush and before the late sleepers arrived.

Chef Dan O’Donnell introduced himself and began assembling the bread pudding before the computer had a chance to spit out another order from the cafe. He tossed a handful of raisins into a bowl and walked to the bar in Jerry’s dining room. The rum bottle was handy enough, and soon the raisins were soaking. To plump them and infuse them with flavor, he put the bowl in the microwave for a minute.

While the raisins lost their wrinkles, Dan poured heavy cream into a saucepan. As the cream heated to a boil, the chef started separating eggs, cracking them into a bowl and then scooping out the yolks with his hand. The yolks were for the custard in the bread pudding; he saved the whites to make egg-white frittatas (which customers typically ordered filled with extra cheese).

Fast work with a wire whisk blended 16 egg yolks, sugar and vanilla extract into a thick, creamy emulsion. Dan never stopped moving, turning his attention from the walk-in refrigerator, back to the stove and then to the baking pan he filled with bread cubes. This was the secret behind the delicate texture of the bread pudding: fresh, tender brioche loaf, not the stale, hard bread usually called for in bread pudding recipes.

By now, the cream had reached a boil, and Dan whisked it into the yolk mixture, moving quickly enough to prevent the yolks from curdling and keeping the custard smooth. As he poured the liquid over the bread, the kitchen filled with enticing aromas of vanilla and rum. He covered the pan with a sheet of aluminum foil, sealing it tightly so the pudding would both steam and bake while it was in the oven.

We were getting ready to leave when Dan remembered the rum sauce: butter, sugar and rum; no quantities specified. Just then, the printer on the counter started to whir and he stepped over to his stove while we headed home to re-create the bread pudding.

After making only one substitution (fresh challah bread), after lunch we were nibbling on warm bread pudding that brought back memories of dessert at Jerry’s Seafood.

Rum Raisin Bread Pudding*

1 C raisins
2/3 C rum
1 qt heavy cream
8 eggs, separated
1/2 C sugar
2 t vanilla
8 to 10 slices fresh brioche or challah bread

Preheat oven to 350 F. Spray the inside of a 9-by-9-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. Measure raisins into a microwave-safe bowl. Pour rum over raisins and microwave on high for 1 minute; set aside. Place cream in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat; bring to a boil and remove from heat. While cream is heating, separate eggs, placing yolks in a large mixing bowl and reserving whites for another use. Whisk together egg yolks, sugar and vanilla; set aside. Cut bread into one-inch cubes and layer in prepared pan. Sprinkle softened raisins over bread and toss to combine. Once cream has boiled, pour cream into egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly to keep eggs from cooking. Pour custard mixture over the bread, using a spatula to make sure all the bread is covered with liquid. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake until top is lightly browned, another 10 minutes. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

*Adapted from Chef Dan O’Donnell

Rum Sauce

1/4 C butter
2/3 C confectioners sugar
3 T rum
1/4 t arrowroot

Melt butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Stir in sugar and rum. Slowly stir in arrowroot and continue to cook over low heat until thickened, about 5 minutes. Serve warm over bread pudding.

Earlier this week we lost someone special. Dave Lemmon was known throughout the area for his generosity to the community. We were neighbors for several years, and we’ll miss his spirited energy.

In his memory, here’s one of my favorite Dave Lemmon recipes for chicken and dumplings, or as he called them, Chix and Slicks. Be sure to follow his instructions for rolling the dough; it should be 3/32 of an inch thick.

Dave Lemmon’s Chix & Slicks

5 lb whole chicken
1/3 C chopped celery
1/2 C chopped carrots
1/2 C chopped onion
salt & pepper, to taste
5 C flour
1 t salt
1 to 2 C chicken broth

Place the chicken, celery and carrots in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook until chicken begins to fall apart. Remove chicken to a cutting board to cool. Skim off any scum that has formed on the surface of the broth. Measure flour and salt into a large mixing bowl.

Add chicken broth, 1/2 C at a time, mixing to form a stiff ball of dough. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. Flatten and roll until it is 3/32 of an inch thick. Bring remaining broth to a boil. Cut rolled dough into 2-inch-square pieces and add to the stock one at a time; allow broth to return to a boil before adding the next square.

Debone the chicken and add shredded pieces to the pot. Continue to simmer until slicks are shiny and tender.