Adventures in Cape May: So close, but such a world apart

Until the advent of ferry service in 1964, the Twin Capes of Cape Henlopen and Cape May had remained very distant siblings indeed. From the Great Dune at Fort Miles, Cape May appeared only faintly as a disembodied vision peeping above the horizon seemingly protruding from the depths of the Atlantic itself.

Its presence could be discerned by only a handful of structures, most notably the monolithic and strangely doleful facade of what, on closer scrutiny, would prove to be the Christian Admiral Hotel.

Now, five decades later, visitors can cross the bay to visit a surviving sister of the late Christian Admiral - Congress Hall hotel, dowager of the Cape May seaside.

After a pleasant and relaxing hour and 15 minute voyage on the Cape May-Lewes Ferry, the visitors complete their trip with an unhurried and uncongested drive into downtown Cape May and the imposing oceanfront edifice of the Congress Hall.

Its brother the Admiral has long since sailed into oblivion, having been demolished in 1995 as part of a deal that would lead to the acquisition and regeneration of Congress Hall. And this transformation has been spearheaded by Curtis Bashaw, grandson of the Christian Admiral's former proprietor, the late Rev. Dr. Carl McIntire.

For those of tender years for whom this name has no significance, be it known that the Rev. McIntire was somewhat of the Rush Limbaugh of his day. Syndicated on 600 radio stations across the country, he preached fundamentalist religion and right-wing politics with fiery fervor and unapologetic certainty.

His hotel became a haven for faithful followers from across the country, and the moonlit summer air was rife with the strains of hymns being sung from the old front porch.

Today this legacy is embodied in numerous properties throughout Cape May, consisting of hotels, condominiums, cottages, restaurants and a 62-acre farm that provides much of the sustenance for the Cape Resorts properties.

The flagship of these, of course, is the stately Congress Hall. Closed in 1991 because of problems with fire code compliance, it remained a shuttered and desolate hulk until almost succumbing to a blaze in 1997. In 2002, Bashaw and his partners were successful in completing a $25 million restoration that has returned Congress Hall to the 19th Century grandeur that was host to five presidents, dating from the 1800s.

Surrounded by elegant wooden porticoes, the hotel gazes serenely across a lush expanse of lawn toward the sea beyond. The sturdy yellow bricks may seem slightly incongruous for the seaside, but once inside the décor speaks of two centuries of salt air and sandy bottoms.

The lobby is gracious yet down-to-earth, with overstuffed armchairs and a cheerfully crackling fireplace. The halls and stairways have a well-worn feel, with slight slanting unevenness betraying the tread of countless footsteps.

Tommy's Folley, the upscale boutique and coffee shop just off the lobby, was named for the original 1816 Congress Hall founder Thomas Hughes. He went on to serve in the U.S. Congress, and despite the public's lack of faith in his dream of attracting throngs of ocean bathers by stagecoach and steamer, would bear fruit,

Access to the more than 100 rooms themselves is gained with heavy metal keys, a tribute to Alice Knight, whose father, Edward C. Knight, purchased the the hotel in 1878 before it succumbed to the Great Cape May Fire. He rebuilt the edifice in brick and re-opened it one year later. Alice, who took over in 1904 as owner, wore the key around her neck for daily inspections of all of the hotel's facilities.

Entering the accommodations is a step back in time, with no pretense of the slick or overly stylish. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, with tall windows and walls in sea-green or sky-blue evoking the vista beyond. Stars in relief on the and-colored window valences further suggest a bygone seashore era,, and the gleaming black and white tiled baths have a distinctly European feel, complete with designer toiletries.

In suitable contrast to the bright and airy ambience of the rooms, the Brown Room downstairs offers a cozy pub setting with custom cocktails several prepared with ingredients from the company farm. The Brown Room is touted as “Cape May's Living Room,” as it attracts locals as well as hotel guests.

Immediately adjoining is the Blue Pig Tavern, again serving locally provisioned comfort food for breakfast, lunch and dinner in an intimate atmosphere. When renovations to the hotel were underway, a wall came down to reveal a picture of a blue pig, thus the restaurant was appropriately christened.

An off-summer visit, especially during the holidays, offers a festive extravaganza of winter wonderland, both inside and out on the front lawn, where Winter Wonderland awaits with 20 vendors and many attractions for children.

Speaking of activities, the hotel offers a vast array of activities, from history tours to magic shows and tours of the self-sustaining farm, but to name a few.

Another of the meticulously restored properties of the Cape Resorts is The Virginia, a smaller, but equally genteel sister to The Congress Hall, just a block away. It is the only hotel in New Jersey to be named one of the world's best in Conde Nast Traveler magazine. Within its elegant confines abides The Ebbitt Room, one of Cape May's finest upscale dining establishments.

Amidst its atmosphere of Victorian refinement and luxury exists an aura of ease and congeniality, as heretofore complete strangers converse between candlelight tables with warmth and familiarity. The sumptuous meals and distinctive wines erode all reserve and barriers to communication and a live piano serenades in the background.

In the morning, after a hearty breakfast at the Blue Pig, a visit to the very farm from whence these wholesome victuals came is scheduled. The driver, sporting blue jeans and a rumpled ball cap, arrives in the lobby. This tour guide is none other than Curtis Bashaw himself, who opened the doors to the Jeep out front.

So this is the hotel and restaurant magnate, the real estate mogul of Cape May County, who has obviously not let his myriad accomplishments go to his head.

He explains that Beach Plum Farm lies just under two miles from the hotel. From his enthusiastic explanation of the farm to table concept, it seems evident he is just as ardent about working the land as presiding over his hospitality empire. Bashaw notes that his interest in farming for the tables of his own restaurant stems a great deal from his paternal grandfather who employed the same concept decades ago. Bashaw began implementing the idea in the late 2000s when he acquired the farm.

Emerging from the Jeep, Bashaw asks his visitors if they are up for a little walk. As the tour proceeds, one is struck not only by the remote and bucolic feel on the farm, but by the sheer variety of animals, fruits and vegetables being nurtured there, most destined for a bountiful dinner table.

Passing through a small hothouse, the air is pungent with the scent of rosemary, sage and thyme. Entering the chicken coop, source of many a sunny side up at the Blue Pig, strollers can observe the bee hives whose honey will sweeten the farm's own lemon verbena tea.

The adjacent open fields yield asparagus, carrots, turnips and 50 other varieties of produce. At the edges of the marsh, summer will bring strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries. Many of these crops find their way into specially made healthy juice blends offered back at the restaurants.

Sheep graze contentedly from the airy meadow and the hogs stare balefully as the bacon and sausage-eating intruders pass by.

The land is gently undulating, and the views from the high ground give no hint that just beyond the treeline lie the souvenirs, gifts and novelties of civilization.

Back in Victorian downtown Cape May await the inviting shops, including The West End Garage featuring more than 50 independent boutiques and local artisans, along with Congress Hall's own Sea Spa, offering decadent massages, facials, and mani/pedis.

However, the ferry eventually beckons all too soon for the quick return trip back to Lewes. As the Cape May Lighthouse moves farther out of sight, it is time to begin planning an inevitable return visit.

For more information about accommodations, restaurants, the farm, holiday events and other amenities go to cape.resorts.com.