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Wine

Trust your own palate rather than critics' reviews

December 15, 2014

Daniel McCunny, communications manager at the Delaware Museum of Natural History, wrote that I erred when reporting the info from Charitynavigator. He explained the deficit was charity given to replace the roof in 2011 but spent in 2012. He made other claims not borne out by the page. I will take him at his word. I did misreport the state funding numbers. As I wrote last week, please look for yourselves. It is your charity being used. I apologize for misleading any folks who did not go to the site regarding the state funding figures.

An excellent wine-oyster article appeared in Forbes, written by Mike Colameco, a guy with whom I probably would enjoy slurping oysters. Don’t miss this. It is a complete, informative, well-written, quick and dirty read with just the right amount of personal story to add spice: eat.snooth.com/articles/nonconformist-oyster-and-wine-pairings.

Bob asked about Pinot Grigio. Try Alois Lageder, great food white, pale straw with greenish tint, a bit dry with apple notes and pleasing clean acidity, $15, 88 points McD.

Sarah asked about Rimarts Gran Reserva 40 Cava. It should be added to your sparkler list, Sarah. Priced under $18. Pervasive bouquet of ripe white fruits and flowers. Fresh on the palate, long and dry. Dried fruits, toast and yeast notes underline the sweet fruit flavors. Balanced acidity with a persistent finish that leaves a clean fruit aftertaste, 89 points McD.

In response to Wildman, T26 Gruner Veltliner 2013 from Tegernseerhof under $15 by the case is a very nice 91-point example. Crisp with green apple, melon and fresh citrus nose, the classic Wachau minerality provides depth and structure. Long finish accented by smoke, herbs and white pepper.

Ellen asked for an inexpensive, high-value lay down for a child’s 21st birthday. WE awarded Chateau Le Grand Moulin Grande Reserve 2010 90 points. Priced at $132/case, I will add 2 price points for these Cote de Blaye Bordeaux, a blend of 70 percent Merlot, 25 percent Cab Franc, and 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, fermented in classical Bordeaux style, then aged in a mixture of new and older oak barrels. Dark purple with tart black fruit, smoke, cedar and some herbal aromas; good balance and finish with plenty of color, oak and tannin telling me it needs six years in cellar; window 2020-35. Be vintage specific, please. Also specify red. The 2010 won Gold at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles and Concours General Agricole in Paris.

Robert Parker rated Bohigas Brut Reserva Cava 90 points. At $14, I gave one a try. It was excellent. Made Methode Champenoise, it was left on lees for two years before disgorgement, providing the yeasty flavors of well-made Champagne. In addition, you will find bright citrus, gravel and currants. RP claimed wheat thins; see if you can find them, 87 plus 2 price points. As close to Champagne as you can come at this price point.

Stan asked about 2012 Domaine Bosquet des Papes A la Gloire de Mon Grand Pere. It was given 97 points by Jeb Dunnock, Tanzer 91-93 and Jancis Robinson 16/20. Truly smart shoppers will wait a few years to buy. But I recommend the 2010 instead. Tanzer 93, Robinson 18/20. Most highly touted CdPs explode in price then settle back as the next “best ever, ever” vintage hits the market. These won’t even start drinking well until 2023. The 2010s will be spectacular then,

To highlight my chronic complaint about writers, myself included, whose reviews read as though different wine was sampled, go here: www.klwines.com/detail.asp?sku=1127748, where you will find reviews by RP, Tanzer, Robinson and an unnamed WS critic. I am doing so to remind you that it is your palate that counts. Try to find someone you agree with most of the time if you are looking for direction. Be sure to read the rest of the paper, ads and all before setting the paper aside to get on the web.

Have a great week.

 

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