Meatloaf has endless variations
Meatloaf (the food, not the rock musician) is a dish with endless variations. From its origins in ancient times to its current incarnation as gourmet comfort food, there are as many recipes for meatloaf as there are cooks and kitchens.
The name of this particular dish accurately defines it: ground meat mixed with other ingredients, formed into a loaf shape and baked. Within that simple description are the countless differences among all the meatloaf varieties.
Food historians have traced the evolution of seasoned meat patties into the larger loaf we know today. From the beginning, ground meat combined with spices and a filler (e.g., bread, rice or cereal) was baked, smoked, fried or simmered and served with a sauce.
The collection of cooking instructions attributed to the 5th century Roman gourmand Apicius included a recipe for meat patties mixed with spices, wrapped in pork fat and simmered in wine. His notes did not specify that type of meat, but did offer the option of mixing in crushed myrtle berries, if desired.
By the 17th century, molded meat recipes were found in the repertoires of European chefs. Later, Dutch, German and Belgian settlers brought their cooking traditions to this country, where recipes for meatloaf first appeared in American cookbooks in the late 1800s.
Today, you can find a signature meatloaf-style dish in almost every country around the globe. Why is this preparation so popular? Economics: you’ll need less meat to feed more people if you combine it with other ingredients and “stretch” your investment in costly protein.
One of the transformative inventions in the history of meatloaf was the mechanical meat grinder. Some of us may recall hand-cranked grinders clamped to our childhood kitchen table. This was a tremendous tool for Depression-era homemakers, now able to grind less-desirable cuts of meat into useful ingredients.
Although almost everyone has their favorite recipe, there are a few keys to a moist and flavorful meatloaf. First thing to consider is the fat content of the meat. Whether you’re only using beef or a combination of beef, pork and veal (sold in the grocery as meatloaf mix) you want to keep the fat ratio around 20 percent.
While ground sirloin makes a great burger, that cut is far too lean for meatloaf and will give you a dense, dry result. Ground chuck is a good choice for an all-beef mix, but anything with more fat will give you a greasy mess. If you choose ground turkey, be sure to incorporate some extra moisture to compensate for only 7 percent fat.
The next decision is how to add that extra moisture. An easy start is stirring in an egg or milk. My favorite option is to sauté finely minced onion or purée highly seasoned cooked carrots. Ketchup, mustard, tomato paste, chili sauce, Worcestershire, tamari and soy sauce are familiar stir-ins that will also give your meatloaf richer flavor.
Another decision is the filler. During the 1940s, recipes called for almost 50 percent of the mixture to come from bread crumbs or rice. Today, cooks reach for panko crumbs, rolled oats, wheat germ or cracker crumbs, just to name a few. Don’t hesitate to sprinkle in some seasonings along with salt and pepper - consider garlic powder or parsley or both.
The loaf shape may be hand-formed and placed in a baking pan, or you can press the mixture into a loaf pan. For a change, follow the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition and place hard-boiled eggs in the middle of the loaf, as in the photo. If you try this, be sure to firmly join the top and bottom sections around the eggs or the loaf will fall apart when you try to slice it.
Debates abound on whether or not the meatloaf should be baked with a topping. Some cooks rely on a savory slice of bacon draped over the loaf, while others concoct a sweet mixture of brown sugar and ketchup or lather on a layer of honey mustard. Newer recipes may feature fresh fruit or vegetables for a colorful change.
Finally, the heat. Ideal oven temperature for baking a meatloaf is 325 F. It may take longer than setting a higher temp, but you’ll avoid the risk of drying out the meat. Give the cooked meatloaf about 10 minutes of rest before slicing, and always make a meatloaf large enough to have leftovers for lunch the next day.
Since there are so many different recipes for this popular food, I’ve included some older versions you might enjoy comparing with the tried and true recipes from your kitchen.
Meat Patties*
Grind finely cut meat with hearts of winter wheat soaked in wine. Flavor with pepper, broth and, if desired, crushed myrtle berries. Form into small patties, inserting crushed allspice and pepper. Wrap in pork caul and simmer in wine. *translated from Apicius c. 900 AD
Baked Beef Loaf*
To 2 pounds of chopped beef add 1/2 cup of bread crumbs, 2 eggs well beaten, 1/2 cup milk, pepper, salt, cayenne pepper and celery salt. Mix well and shape into a loaf. Spread a cup of fresh sliced tomatoes in the baking pan, place the beef loaf on top of this and add another cup of tomatoes on the top. Bake 3/4 hour. *from The Inglenook Cook Book, 1911
Stuffed Meat Loaf*
1/2 lb ground beef
1/2 lb ground pork
1 C rice flakes
1 egg
1/3 C milk or ketchup
3/4 t salt
1/8 t pepper
2 T chopped onions
Combine ingredients lightly but thoroughly. Place half the meat mixture in bottom of loaf pan lined with waxed paper. Cover with stuffing mixture (recipe below) and top with remaining meat mixture. Pack firmly to mold, then turn out into roasting pan. Remove waxed paper and bake in 450 F oven for 10 minutes. Then reduce heat to 350 F and cook until done, about 1 hour. *adapted from WWII Ration Cookbook, Low Point Meat Dishes
Stuffing
3 1/2 C bread crumbs
3 T bacon drippings
1 minced onion
1/2 t salt
dash pepper
1/2 t sage
