Special Sauvignon Blanc reminds us of trip to Simi
Ain't the beer cold! Let’s jump right in with Pandemonium Red Wine 2012, from Fazeli, in Temecula Valley. Blended of 64 percent Petite Sirah, Merlot, Cab Franc, Shiraz and Cab Sauv, I sampled some due to its label. You may check it out here: http://shop.fazelicellars.com/assets/files/sme-product/364744/364773.jpg I’m glad I took the leap. Dark wine-purple, nearly opaque, it opened to a complex profile of blackberries and plums with a nice subset of black pepper, leather and pie spice. Fruit/acid in balance and plenty of tannin says cellar me. The blend of this product changes year to year, so it is definitely vintage specific.
“Davy, Davy Crockett, King of the Wine Frontier.” Nostalgia prompted me to revisit Fess Parker The Big Easy Red 2012, where $24 gets you a meaty, well-structured blend of Syrah, Grenache and Petite Sirah. Another Hit Parade top 40. Very dark purple, with an aromatic bouquet of blueberries and blackberries, smoked meat, lavender and vanilla. The flavors repeat the nose. The finish is long and thick with chocolate tannins; 90 McD, 2 price points. Try this with a slab of pork ribs or a wood-grilled steak. Laissez les bons temps rouler!
Barbara and I had an opportunity to sample a Simi Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc 2014, and it prompted reminiscence of our visit to Simi, when Zelma Long was winemaker and Grande Madame. Zelma had just wrapped up her stint at Mondavi and was in the process of revitalizing Simi. A lot has changed since then, but Susan Lueker and Lisa Evich, the current team, are doing just fine.
The SB was scrumptious. Pale straw, slight green tint; it opens to grapefruit and lemongrass. The palate has good acid zip, supported with ripe fruit, lime and grapefruit flavors. Pleasing long mineral and citrus finish leaves your palate clean and asking, “May I have anuvver, sir?” I think it compares favorably with the award-winning 2012. Although it has slightly less acidity, the fruit flavors compensate. It is an atypical SB fairly priced right around $13, 90 McD. We served it with a hot roasted half broiler chicken 425*, fresh tomato/olive oil and sea salt, and a potato salad. Delicious.
Cade’s Napa Valley Cab 2012: First off, the Napa Valley is a slight misnomer, since Cade sits at 1,800 feet on a Howell Mountain top near St. Helena. The Cab is a perennial 89-93-point winner since I started following it in 2007, when Tanzer gave them a 90-point rating. As regular readers know, I think Mr. T is the tough-guy rater, along with Jancis Robinson and Anthony Galloni. My notes read: Very dark purple says, “cellar me.” Complex nose of cherries, cocoa, roses, berries and hint of olives. On the palate, good viscosity and smooth tannic grip, berry jam, cassis and toffee. Finishes long and shows great promise. They are on sale $60, off slightly since RP’s 92. For the patient and well heeled, Howell Mountain (Cade’s Reserve Cab name) 2008 is always a top choice. This star is ready to drink, 95 points. The original opaque color, high tannins and closed or masked aromas and flavors have come into their own. Blending nicely into a pretty berry and pencil lead nose with a balanced full body and more berry flavors that continue through a lovely, long finish. It will continue to improve. The 2012 Howell Mountain, which RP awarded 98 points, again very dark, nearly opaque. Loads of berries and currants with faint oak spice and vanilla, maybe some olive notes as well. A huge wine with a very long finish that needs lots of cellar time. I would wait or avoid. The wine should be terrific, but there are a lot of variables and the price should come down before it rises.
If you are looking in this category I say look into Stag's Leap Cask 23 2012. Reminds me of the halcyon days of the 1990-92 vintages. Cab aficionados know that Stag’s Leap went through a long spell of average Cabs but 2009, '11 and '12 seem to be reversing the trend. I’m waiting to sample the 2013. Corn, tomatoes and crab, they don’t get any better.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
