Roast pig popular around the world
On a recent vacation in Hawaii, we had the opportunity to attend a traditional luau, complete with roast suckling pig. It's a popular dish around the world, and there are many techniques to roast a whole pig. I’ll describe the island fashion as well as an approach for the home cook.
Hawaiians call the underground oven a kalua, a word meaning “the hole.” And, this isn’t an ordinary hole in the ground, which is why this cooking style is reserved for special occasions and celebrations for large groups.
The first item of business is to dig a hole large enough to hold the suckling pig, typically between 40 and 60 pounds in size. These young piglets are the best type for this purpose because their flesh is so rich in collagen and they haven’t developed tough muscle fibers. Collagen, or connective proteins, dissolve into gelatin, making the cooked meat incredibly juicy.
Once the pit is ready, large lava rocks are arranged all over the inside. Since these stones have endured the extremely high temperatures associated with a volcanic eruption, we’re sure the pig-roasting heat won’t cause them to shatter. Next, a large wood bonfire is built on the rocks and left burning long enough to thoroughly heat the stones.
Some of the hot stones are removed and set aside, then banana leaves or ti leaves are spread across the bottom layer of hot rocks; these will help steam the food. The specially prepared suckling pig (intestines and bristly hairs removed, limbs and skin largely intact) is wrapped in more leaves and set on the stones, along with wrapped vegetables such as yams.
The remaining hot stones are replaced in the pit, layered on top of the leaf-wrapped food and finally covered completely with dirt to insulate the oven. If this meal is for a party, the work to build the hot oven begins very early in the morning and dinner isn’t served until almost 12 hours later, depending upon the size of the pig.
To serve the succulent meat, the pig is dug up and carried to a large table where the banana leaves are unwrapped to reveal glistening, crisp skin and meat that is falling from the bone (see photo). Carving the meat isn’t necessary; instead, tender hunks are simply pulled away with forks.
Just as the Hawaiians and other Polynesian islanders served elaborate meals that featured roasted pig, culinary historians report the dish has been a staple in this country since the earliest European settlers arrived. For centuries, farmers would let their pigs roam, foraging on what was available in the surrounding fields, until it was time for them to become dinner.
Most of us have been to a party where roasted pig is the centerpiece, and there are no underground ovens in sight. Here, either a specially designed metal oven or heavy-duty spit system is used to roast (and smoke) the whole pig over a wood or charcoal fire. If you don’t have that equipment and you’d like to try your hand at roasted pig, you need only go as far as the oven in your kitchen.
The first consideration is size. Most conventional home ovens can fit a suckling pig of about 10 to 12 pounds on a rimmed baking sheet or curled on its side in a roasting pan. When deciding how large a suckling pig to buy, figure you’ll need between one pound to one and a half pounds raw weight per person. Explain how you’re planning to cook it and make your purchase from a reputable butcher or mail-order supplier.
Season the pig with generous amounts of salt, both inside the belly cavity and over the skin. Since the texture of the flesh is so delicate, you’ll definitely taste the signature flavor of any freshly ground pepper or herbs you toss inside. Consider including some orange wedges, fresh thyme or sprigs of summer savory.
To imitate the environment of the pit oven, you’ll want to keep the temperature low and slow, about 275 F. Make sure to use a meat thermometer to test the internal temperature at the shoulder joint. For the best texture of the cooked pork, let it get to at least 180 F.
Finally, crisp up the skin by raising the oven temperature for a final 20 minutes of roasting. Before serving, allow the pig to rest for at least 20 minutes, then pull off a piece of the crispy skin and grab a chunk of tender, juicy meat. Aloha.
Oven Roasted Suckling Pig
10-lb suckling pig*
1 C salt
1 quartered lemon
3 thyme sprigs
1 rosemary sprig
pepper
Preheat oven to 275 F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil; set aside. Rinse and dry the pig. Season generously with salt inside and out. Place lemon and herb sprigs in the stomach cavity; sprinkle with pepper. Place seasoned pig back side up on the prepared pan. (If using a large roasting pan, set the pig on its side). Cover ears and tail with foil to prevent burning. If you plan on serving with an apple in the mouth, ball up a piece of foil and place it in the jaws to hold the mouth open. After 2 hours in the oven, turn over the pig and continue cooking until internal temperature at the shoulder joint reaches 180 F as measured by a meat thermometer (about 3 1/2 hours). Raise oven temperature to 500 F and roast an additional 20 to 30 minutes to crisp the skin. Allow to rest for at least 20 minutes before serving. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
*Note - make sure pig has been trimmed of any bristly exterior hairs and all intestines have been removed.
Send comments, questions and recipe suggestions to capeflavors@comcast.net
