Sparkling wines not just for toasting
With the holidays fast approaching, I spent quite a bit of time at the sparkler tables while visiting my last big tasting in N.J. searching for wonderful, inexpensive sparklers. Unlike those who recommend sparklers as aperitif or toasting wine, I enjoy sparklers as great food wine. They go especially well with foods found at holiday buffets. They are wonderful with oysters on the half shell or roasted with a Champagne beurre blanc, shrimp in most of its renditions, steamed clams, turkey, crab cakes, scallops, and lobster bisque all love the cleansing zip of a well-made sparkler. The past few weeks, I have reviewed several Italian sparklers. So, this week’s column will dwell on California’s delightful selections.
Scharffenberger NV Brut $19, 90 points, is a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend showing apple and honey aromas and flavors. Good body, finishes with caramel, vanilla and a malolactic creaminess. Going upscale, Chandon 2006 Mt. Veeder Reserve is a gorgeous, elegant wine, priced around $40, 92 points. Chandon Reserve Blanc de Blanc, 90 points at $25 shows nicely balanced floral nose and poached pear. Roederer Estate brut ($23), 92 points, is a rich blend of Chard and PN blended with aged reserve wines. Shows a delightful yeast and fruit nose backed up by hazelnut flavor, and enough acid to clean up the palate. It is a wonderful pork or ham wine that can be served throughout the evening. Mumm's Napa Brut Rosé, 89 points, $18, is a PN and Chard blend, pretty rosé color, achieved by adding red wine. Nose is strawberry and plum. More berries on the creamy, spicy palate and a very long, crisp finish. The Reserve is bottle aged four years before release and it shows, 92 points, $25, and worth the buy up, although I don’t wish to diminish the non-reserve. Excellent QPR.
Many read Roederer and think Cristal! Big bucks! But Roederer's venture into Cali has brought us several lovely, inexpensive sparklers. Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley NV, was given 92 points by three writers. This isn’t Cristal, but it is darn good and a great QPR under $20. The Roederer Brut Premier got a 91 from Tanzer. Blended of 60 percent PN, 30 Chard and 10 Pinot Meunier, Its yellow-gold color reminded me of Veuve Cliquot. Spicy lemon/apple aromas highlighted with gravel notes in the nose. On the palate, croissant, peach and apricot flavors. Tanzer wrote of cherry pit bitterness, but I did not detect it. Rather, I thought the mineral note and the gravel aromas might lead some to think bitter. The finish was crisp, with elevated mineral accent and very clean.
Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noir are two varietal delights. The Blanc de Blancs are 100 percent Chardonnay. The 2008 is still around and still the vintage to buy. Priced at $40 it gets 93 points. Maybe the best recent vintage. Ginger ale-colored with fresh lime, Granny Smith, pineapple and hints of barrel-aged honeycomb and hazelnut aromas. Opens acid crisp with lime, pineapple and tropical fruit flavors, on the mid palate, lemon custard and brioche. Finishes with a fruity sweetness, although the wine is completely dry, supported by appropriate acidity, through a long, clean finish. The Blanc de Noirs 2010 priced favorably around $32 get a McD 91. They are in their perfect window.
Try to buy a case of Fox Run Reserve Riesling 2011 late release from Seneca Lake, McD 94, at $350/case. This is a great gift wine for pals in the know. A truly lovely nose of honey, mango, and grapefruit is improved by extended bottle aging. On the palate, good fruit concentration, with creamy lime and mineral notes This is drinking well now but should cellar through 10 years.
Clay asked for an unoaked Chardonnay recommendation. Wente Small Lot Eric's Chardonnay Livermore Valley 2014 is worth a look. Although these are not my cuppatea usually, this $25 bottle was a darn good buy. Medium-bodied wine that showed ripe fruit flavors, with almond and vanilla accents and a creamy texture through its clean finish, 91 points.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
