Eggnog is perfect as a holiday gift

One of our annual traditions during the holiday season is to purchase a bottle of Lewes Dairy eggnog. This year, I’ve heard people remark that they’ve noticed something different about the taste and consistency. Comments from former fans varied - it’s not as rich, not as thick or there’s not as much noticeable cream at the top of the bottle.

The original reports of Hy-Point Dairy’s association with Lewes Dairy described the new relationship as a merger, not a purchase. But the Wilmington-based Hy-Point, a family business similar to the Lewes Dairy, has now owned the Lewes business since 2013.

Any speculation that the new management team may have changed the recipe for this popular concoction seems unlikely, since the Brittingham family from Lewes still makes the eggnog, just at the northern Delaware Hy-Point plant instead of their building on the Lewes-Rehoboth Canal.

The list of ingredients on the bottle may surprise purists, who (like me) would have expected nothing but milk and eggs, sugar and spices. Instead, you’ll find additives like corn syrup, mono- and diglycerides, cellulose gum, annatto-turmeric and carrageenan. Let’s see why they’re in the mix.

Corn syrup is processed from corn into a liquid that is intensely sweet and thick. There are two types commercially available: dark and light. The dark variety of corn syrup is a combination of corn syrup and molasses, well-known as a key ingredient in pecan pie. Light corn syrup is clear and lightly flavored with vanilla; this is added to the eggnog for additional sweetening and subtle flavoring.

Mono- and diglycerides are common fat additives used as emulsifiers to give foods like peanut butter and margarine a creamy, rich texture. Cellulose gum is derived from wood pulp, and its purpose is to thicken and bind ingredients. It’s not harmful, but doesn’t sound very appetizing; you’ll find it in foods from ice cream to soup.

Annatto and turmeric are both plant-based coloring agents that give food a yellowish hue. Turmeric is commonly found in mustard, where it also imparts a slightly spicy flavor. Annatto is widely used in dairy products to provide a light, buttery color.

Carrageenan is derived from red seaweed and used as a food additive for its gel-like properties. You’ll see it on the labels of replacement milk products such as almond and soy milks where it has a thickening effect. Many canned soups, broths and stocks, as well as frozen dinners and meal-replacement shakes add carrageenan for texture.

Why are all these extra additives included? Probably because rather than cooking a custard as the basis for the eggnog, it’s easier to use a commercial flavoring and thickening mixture designed for the drink. Also, some of the additives prolong the shelf life of the eggnog.

Chip Brittingham, grandson of the Lewes Dairy founders and current manager of the Lewes plant, hasn’t revealed the recipe for the eggnog his family started producing in 1940. He does acknowledge that there’s a “base mix” churned into the cream, milk, eggs and spices. My guess is that’s where the unexpected ingredients join the list.

After hearing the murmur of complaints, I wasn’t sure what to expect in this year’s batch of Lewes Dairy eggnog. Fortunately, it tasted exactly the same as in years past: sweet, rich, creamy and thick with just the right balance of spice.

If you’d prefer to make your own eggnog, perhaps to run a taste comparison with Lewes Dairy, I’ve included two recipes. One is for a heady cocktail, laced with brandy and rum; the other is a cooked version, popular for those concerned about consuming raw eggs. I’ve also included Dotti Wiker’s recipe for Lewes Dairy Eggnog Pound Cake, a perfect holiday gift for your favorite host or hostess this season.

Traditional Eggnog

12 eggs
2 C superfine sugar
1 pt brandy
1 pt rum
1/2 pt apricot brandy
6 C milk
2 C cream
1/4 t grated nutmeg

Separate the eggs. Pour egg whites into a clean bowl; cover and refrigerate. Combine the yolks and sugar in a large mixing bowl; beat until thick. Slowly pour in the brandy, rum and apricot brandy, stirring constantly.

Add the milk and cream; stir to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 3 hours. When ready to serve, pour into a punch bowl. Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold gently into the eggnog. Sprinkle with grated nutmeg.

Cooked Eggnog

6 eggs
2 egg yolks
4 C light cream
10 T confectioners sugar
1 C rum
1 T vanilla
1/2 t nutmeg

Pour the cream into a large saucepan. Whisk in eggs, yolks and sugar; stir until thoroughly combined. Place saucepan on the stove over the lowest possible heat. Cook for 25 to 30 minutes, whisking continuously until the mixture reaches 160°F and will coat the back of a spoon. Line a strainer with cheesecloth and place it over a large mixing bowl. Pour the mixture through the strainer to catch any pieces of cooked egg; discard the cheesecloth and any collected solids. Stir in the rum, vanilla and nutmeg; cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. When ready to serve, whisk with an immersion blender to ensure a creamy consistency.

Dotti Wiker’s Lewes Dairy Eggnog Pound Cake

1 16-oz packaged pound cake mix
1 1/4 C Lewes Dairy eggnog
2 large eggs
1/2 t vanilla
1/2 t grated nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350 F. Coat the inside of a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. Combine all ingredients in a large mixing bowl and beat at low speed with an electric mixer until blended. Increase speed to medium and beat an additional 2 minutes. Pour batter into prepared pan and bake until a cake tester comes out clean, about 1 hour and 5 minutes. Cool in pan for about 10 minutes, then remove from pan to a wire rack to cool completely.

Send comments, questions or recipe ideas to capeflavors@comcast.net.