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Wine

Antinori Guado al Tasso 2006 is a real steal

November 21, 2011

Just tasted the Columbia Crest H3 Cab 2009, It was touted heavily on release. WA gave it a 90-point rating and it can be found well under $15. On reading an ad for $12, I bought a bottle. Plum, currant mid palate, it finishes with dark chocolate and coffee with some toasted oak nuance. All are wrapped into a wine for immediate consumption.  May hold until 2014. The wine hails from Horse Heaven Hills in Washington State. Great everyday drinking Cab.  Buy at $150/case or less.

Ramey Cab 2006 on sale at $175 for six is a sparkling ruby, whose cherry, berry aromas are enhanced by dried rose, tobacco and fresh herbs. Juicy mid palate of sweet red and dark berry flavors with refined tannins. The finish is spicy;  95 points with one price point. Ready next year cellar for 15.

Going upscale to a 97-point Antinori Guado al Tasso 2006, a lovely Tuscan Bolgheri, priced at $330/six pak. This is a steal and-a-half.  WS 95, Suckling 95 and WE 97 points. When it was selling $80-110 it was an excellent choice for wealthy newspaper publishers and school teachers (some Realtors and auto dealers are currently on hiatus).  Anyhoo, the 2006 al Guado is the bomb:  floral bouquet of violets, licorice, berries, currants and a hint of coffee. Full bodied, with a very long finish that is loaded with ripe blackberries, good minerality and soft tannins. Guado al Tasso is  drinking well now and should easily cellar through 2020.

We are well into oyster season. Be assured I had some big fat slurpy Deal Island beauties this past weekend. I would be remiss not to prompt all of you friends to search out some Muscadet, Sevre-et-Maine. This is the ne plus ultra of oyster accompaniments, even better than Champagne. Muscadet is wonderful with all shellfish. The S&V is from a sub region named for the two rivers running through.

It is the most productive of the three sub-appellations in the Loire and produces the best of the Muscadet. Half the wines are matured sur lie, or on the lies. Try to locate Fief du Breil from Domaine de la Louvetrei 2008 or '09. Both are typical, lively and complex, with floral and apple flavors.

They should be bought under $200/case. Another good choice would be 2008 Andre-Michel Bérgeon - fresh and tangy, with rich texture and pronounced mineral flavors. Buy around $15/bottle.

Please keep in mind, my friends, that Muscadet ages and improves. Most are fermented “sur lie” and aged in oaken casks. Unlike many inexpensive whites, these improve for several years after bottling, as does good Chablis or other white Burgundy. As an added bonus, the best Muscadet stands up to turkey on rye with lettuce and mayo.

Another quality one finds with Muscadet is a briny characteristic. This region of Loire is located near Nantes and the Atlantic Ocean, a prolific estuarine complex similar in many respects to our Bays. The affinity it has for oysters underlines the old foodie saw, “What grows together, goes together” - stolen from Lana Bartolot writing for Snooth. Initially Nigel Slater took credit, but I am sure it goes back much further. Anyone knows its attribution email me at chjonmc@yahoo.com

Remember John Duval, lon time Penfolds winemaker, discussed here a few months ago? John Duval Eligo 2005, which was highly touted (94 WA) and released in USA, rising into the $100/bottle stratosphere, is findable at $40/bottle; 95 percent Shiraz and five percent Cab. It is still deep purple with toast, pencil lead, espresso, licorice, blackberry and blueberry.

Fruit-filled palate, nice balanced frame, good use of oak, but not forward, the wine will improve through 2020 and is drinking well now. This is a huge bargain at less than $50 Was it only a scant five years ago that so many were deploring the poorly paid teachers and class sizes were to be absolutely 18 or less?

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