Dine on the road less taken

As the deadline for this column looms (as it has every week for almost 14 years), it’s a challenge to figure out what will – or will not – hit a nerve. A couple of years ago, what started out as a lighthearted culinary romp through our neighboring towns ended up generating a flood of emails and texts questioning, criticizing and even adding to my list of off-the-beaten-path finds. In spite of my brilliantly crafted fine-print disclaimer citing space restrictions for not including every last restaurant, truck, carryout and roadside stand in the tristate area, I did feel a few pangs of guilt – at least for a few minutes.

But there are in fact some pretty good places for those suffering the pangs of wanderlust. For an example, venture northward to Cool Springs Fish Bar in Dover. Created by talented Chef Dennis Forbes, it is now under the capable cheffing of Joe Lopez. Early returns suggest that he’s battin’ a thousand up there.

Waaayyy down south in Seaford you’ll find one of the best French joints I have ever visited. Simple and authentic dishes (minus the beachy hype) presented by Chino and Karen Pedemonte check all the boxes for unpretentious country French. It’s well worth the 45-minute or so drive. Also in Seaford is Dona Maria’s Pupuseria. Not unlike Fredy Garcia and Joaquin Cortez’ Cabañas Salvadorean restaurant across from Bethany Blues Lewes, Dona Maria’s features pupusas – warm corn tortillas stuffed with pretty much anything from cheese to beans, from beef to pork. Tamales and fried plantains also make cameo appearances on the menu.

In the last month or so, Millsboro has been in the spotlight with the opening of Thierry Langer’s second Kaisy’s Delights in the old bank building where The Pint used to dwell, along with Nectar Restaurant setting up shop just across the street. Kaisy’s menu is a departure from standard beach fare, with Central European and French comfort food. One of The Rehoboth Foodie’s pick hits is the smoothly delicious cold-brew coffee (it packs a wallop!). Lisa McDonald’s Nectar is lighting up the longtime Blue Water Grill location. Wait ‘til you see what she’s done to the interior – and yes, she kept that beautiful metal ceiling. I love the CBLT sammie (chicken, B, L, T with avocado and garlic aioli), and the Vedge sammie with zucchini, squash, ‘shrooms, roasted red peppers, sautéed onions, spinach and mozzarella on ciabatta with pesto and balsamic. Don’t act so surprised! In between burgers, cheesesteaks and pizzas, The Rehoboth Foodie does eat vegetarian from time to time.

Yet another longtime hidden gem packs ‘em in every day in Milford, where the cognoscenti know about the Westside Restaurant. House-made chicken pot pies (a Thursday special). Some of the best pancakes around (trust me on this!). And Greek goodies like spanakopita, pastitsio and moussaka on Tuesdays. If you’re lucky you’ll get to meet Madula, the upbeat and welcoming owner.

Trekking south to Fenwick, you’ll find Jimmy’s Kitchen in Ocean Bay Plaza (no relation to Jimmy’s Grille). Every day in season, the lanky and talkative Jimmy pilots the flattop griddle like an F-14 ... until he runs out of stuff. The Nor’easter breakfast will fill you for several days. Rain or shine, there’s always a line.

If you blink, you’ll miss Pomodoro Pizzeria in downtown Bethany Beach. Italian natives Rose and Brian Conte definitely know their sauces and cheese. The pies remind me of Louie & Ernie's tiny storefront in the Bronx, some of the best pizza I’ve ever eaten. Thanks to Rose and Brian, I no longer have to brave the Cross-Bronx Expressway to get my pizza fix. Their oven is small, so order your pie in advance by calling 302-537-1359 and they’ll fix it so it’s piping hot at the agreed-upon time. Pomodoro’s is cuddled up to Dickie Heidenberger’s emporium of frozen custard on the ocean block of Garfield Parkway.

One more stop before I present you with my disclaimer: Dagsboro hosts Porto Pizza & Grill on Route 20. Yes, the pizzas are quite good, but the salads are the stars of the show. Cool, fresh and crispy every time with some very good dressings. And the cheesesteak is a sleeper for sure; get it with mushrooms.

OK: Here’s the long-awaited disclaimer: I’m sure I left out somebody’s favorite place! So venture out and discover your own hidden gems. Who knows what you might find? If it’s good, tell me about it. If it’s not, tell me about that, too.