Egg substitutes can be surprisingly recipe-friendly

Last week, the Waffle House chain of restaurants announced it would be adding a 50-cent surcharge to each egg customers order to address an "unprecedented rise in egg prices.” Citing the widespread outbreak of bird flu that has affected egg-laying flocks (not the younger poultry sold for meat), the company promised to watch prices and make adjustments or remove the surcharge “as the market allows.”

If you have been in the grocery store recently, you have seen egg prices exceed $7-$8 per dozen, with very limited supplies. And, if you are a fan of liquid egg substitute products, those prices have skyrocketed as well, if there is any stock on the shelves at all. For those who typically enjoy a morning scramble or eggs over easy, there aren’t many other choices, but for those of you who bake, there may be a way to manage.

One likely unfamiliar option is something called aquafaba. This is the cooking liquid in a can of beans or the pot liquid after cooking dried beans in water. It is infused with carbohydrates, proteins and soluble plant solids that can mimic the qualities of eggs. Aquafaba is foamy and can thicken, emulsify and bind in similar fashion to a beaten egg. For best results, whisk it slightly instead of using it straight from the can.

Two types of seeds are popular with health-food fans and weight-loss diets. Either chia seeds or flax seeds can be mixed with water and allowed to thicken slightly before adding the blend to your batter instead of eggs. Some people notice a hint of grassy flavor with the flax seeds and a slight crunch imparted by the chia seeds. 

Arrowroot, a powder produced from a tuber found in South America, is well-known for its thickening properties in gravies and fruit pies. When dissolved in water, it can add a hint of sweetness as an egg replacement, but can also have a drying effect on the texture of the finished product. Two different fruits can take the place of an egg in a recipe: applesauce and mashed banana. They both also add a bit of moisture and can slightly alter the dominant flavor.

A more complicated substitute is a mixture of water, baking powder and vegetable oil. As you may imagine, when more of the leavening agent is added, the texture will be lighter and airier, but there is no effect on taste. The final option suggested by various food bloggers and ingredient testers across the internet is also the most straightforward – carbonated water.

Because carbonation is essentially the formation of air bubbles in a liquid, when trapped in the batter, they create air pockets that will expand in the oven, creating a light texture. Also similar to eggs, carbonated water will add moisture to the recipe and help hold the ingredients together without changing the flavor profile. When I made the blueberry muffins in the photo, I tried this substitution, which is recommended for cakes, cupcakes, muffins, pancakes and quick breads. 

The result surprised me during the mixing process, when the batter came together just as it does when using an egg. The final texture of the muffins was light and airy without being too crumbly. There was a nice contrast between the cake and the juicy berries. I’ve shared a muffin recipe and a cookie recipe that use substitutes for the eggs. Although this certainly won’t be the solution for my favorite breakfast omelet or quiche, it does make it possible to continue baking during the egg shortage.

Blueberry Muffins*

Preheat oven to 400 F. Place paper liners in a 12-cup muffin tin or coat the sides of each cup with nonstick cooking spray; set aside. Sift together dry ingredients in a mixing bowl; set aside. In another bowl, whisk together carbonated water, milk and melted butter. Create a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the milk mixture. Stir quickly, just until moistened. Stir in blueberries, taking care not to overmix. Fill each cup in the prepared muffin tin about 2/3 full. Combine cinnamon and sugar; sprinkle evenly over the batter. Bake until golden, about 25 minutes. Cool slightly before removing muffins from the tin. Yield: 12 muffins. *Adapted from “What’s Cooking in Lewes” by Elaine Mitchell.

Chocolate Chip Cookies

Preheat oven to 375 F. Sift together flour, baking soda and salt in small bowl; set aside. Beat together butter, granulated sugar, brown sugar and vanilla in large mixing bowl until smooth. Add applesauce, stirring to combine. Add flour mixture; beat until creamy. Stir in chocolate chips. Drop batter by rounded tablespoons onto ungreased baking sheets. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Cool on baking sheets for 2 minutes; remove to wire racks to cool completely. Yield 2 1/2 dozen cookies.