The evolution of a beachy indulgence

Like so many handheld treats, cheesesteak sandwiches tend to be attracted to oceans. We are particularly blessed to be just a few miles from Philadelphia, which is purported to be the birthplace of the cheesesteak. Over the last hundred years or so, this tubular food has undergone lots of changes, but that hasn’t stopped it from becoming a casual dining favorite throughout the world.

The story goes like this: A long, long time ago, Harry and Patrick Olivieri ran a tiny hot dog stand in South Philly. (The hot dogs were normal size. The stand was tiny.) One fateful day, in a moment of wild abandon, the brothers threw some thinly sliced beef and onions on a grill and dished ‘em up on a toasted roll. Among the historic events that make the 1940s so memorable was the addition of provolone cheese to that sandwich. In the ‘50s, Frank Olivieri found that he could speed up service by speeding up the cheese. Say what you like, but Cheez Whiz melts perfectly into the soft roll, making the traditional cheesesteak even more delightfully messy. Is it really cheese? Do you really need to know that? Just belly up to the window and say, “Wit’ Whiz!”

It wasn’t long before Geno’s, a friendly competitor, opened directly across from Pat’s at that storied intersection of 9th and Passyunk, and the rest is cheesesteak history. Nowadays in the City of Brotherly Love, you can’t throw an orange can of Whiz without hitting a cheesesteak joint, and each one puts its own mark on the product. But one thing that hasn’t changed over time is the strict specifications that apply to the bread: a long roll, soft enough to absorb the flavors, but sturdy enough to effectively cradle the treasures within. Two northern bakeries are particularly known for producing those yeasty gems, Amoroso’s and Liscio’s. So fear not! Even if you’re not from Philadelphia or have no idea what the heck an Amoroso or a Liscio is, read on. You’re at the beach. This is information you’re going to need.

Let’s start at the water: The ‘steak is one of the stars at Gus & Gus’ Place on the Boardwalk. Stuffed to bursting with frizzled beef, it couldn’t be any fresher if it had been built right in front of you – which it is. A block north and about 75 feet west, the Gouvas brothers at Louie’s build grinders. Don’t panic: The New England term refers to the fact that the sandwich is crisped under a broiler. Extensive studies have shown that both Gus’ and Louie’s creations happily survive the trip down to your blanket and umbrella.

I crow about the Italian sub at Casapulla’s Sub Shop, and it is indeed delicious. But Mike and Paula LaPenta’s sub & meatball emporium near Giant Food also builds a delicious cheesesteak. I get onions, pickles and cherry pepper spread. Moving north to Lewes, fresh turkey might be the specialty at Capriotti’s, but the Wilmington-born chain also makes a fine cheesesteak. The largest size will feed the Mormon Tabernacle Choir. Another sleeper in the Lewes area is Pat’s Pizzeria. It’s not just about pizza there in Mariner Plaza; Pat’s puts together a nice ‘steak on a properly warm, soft roll. Speaking of Wilmington-born, Pete’s Steak Shop in the Rehoboth Marketplace shopping center whomps up a good one with either rib eye or chicken. And lo and behold, boss Petru Cornescu makes sure that the orange-spray-can cheese – a Philly must-have for purists – is available for the asking.

On our way to OC, we’ll make a quick stop in downtown Bethany Beach at Kristin and Billy Lewis’ Surf’s Up. This little family knows their cheesesteaks, and the pizza is also quite good. It’s a hidden gem for sure. OK, on to 28th Street in OC at Buxy’s Salty Dog Saloon and the adjacent Drydock 28. Buxy’s ‘steaks are extremely generous, and I love that they lace ‘em with brightly spiced cherry pepper spread. Spice wimps rejoice: You can always ask them not to do that if you’re feeling shy.

Though a turkey ‘steak might smack of heresy, Buxy’s also capitalizes on the bird’s healthy reputation by offering the Tiny Hiny stuffed with grilled jalapenos, onions and American cheese. I have enjoyed several, but I dare say my hiny is no tinier. Maybe it’s because I order a side of fried mozzarella. Back up north, Gary’s Dewey Beach Grill also elevates the humble gobbler to cheesesteak status. Enveloped in an actual Amoroso roll, it comes with all the standard accoutrements, plus a few unusual toppings if you’re feeling frisky.

Fat Vinny dishes up made-to-order ‘steaks not only from his colorful truck (often in Lewes – and check out his sausage & peppers!) but also at his brand-new spot in Fenwick on Route 54 where Billy’s used to be. Vinny will be open there in a couple of days.

The Starboard (a partyin’ part of the Dewey Way of Life) also does a fine job in the cheesesteak department. Across the street, Woody’s Dewey Beach Grill might be The Place for Crabcakes, but do try Jimmy’s Philly cheesesteak. Like his burgers and french dip sandwich, it’s fully packed and well-constructed – not unlike The Rehoboth Foodie, in fact.