Fabre Montmayou is cool-weather Malbec at its best
You may remember I enjoy some of the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. You may have tried some I recommended and found them to have remarkably similar profiles. One aspect of American winemaking that NZ winemakers joined in wholeheartedly was that once they find a commercially viable product, dumb all down to the discovered profile to amp up sales. Terroir be damned. This march to the middle has resulted in most NZ SB showing a little gooseberry or grapefruit, some grassy notes and sharp acidity.
I was prompted to this wine by an article written by Suburban's wine guy. Embedded was a recommendation for Chasing Venus SB 2010, touting it for its complexity and comparing it favorably to a well-made Sancerre. While I disagree with the conclusions of the writer somewhat, the gooseberry and grapefruit are still noticeable. I did find it quite a bit more complex than many NZ SB. Pronounced herbal aromas waft from the glass, and the normal flavors are greatly enhanced by the added soupcon of kiwi, minerals and lime. All are riding a subdued acid frame sufficient to balance the nose and flavors through a long, stony finish. Oysters, you betcha. Best of all, you can buy a case for $150 delivered. It makes a great beurre blanc for rockfish and a summer cooler as well.
Stop buying those $10-$15 Malbec and search out a bottle of Fabre Montmayou Malbec Gran Reserva 2008; 91 points plus two price points. Your local wine guy or gal should bring in a case for $240 and be able to make a fair markup. Fifty-year-old vines (lower yield, more concentration) deliver an opaque purple, flavor-packed gem. Lots of blackberry and mocha on the full-bodied palate extends through a berry-laden, long, clean finish. This is cool-weather Malbec at its best.
Got money to burn? The highest-rated Caymus Special Selection Cab 2008 since the 2004 is on sale for $100. RP and WS both awarded 94 points. Big whoop!
The 2004 can be had for $150/bottle. Friends, over 15,618 cases were produced. Although the wine is wonderful, I say it sells off. Wait a few years or until the next blockbuster vintage and buy some then. Will start drinking well 2013 and cellar through 2020 at least.
I'd rather send you out to Wine Access for a case of Barlow Vineyards Barrouge 2003 Cab. You should find some at $26 on case lots and $32 by the bottle.
The 2003 Calistoga Cab is a tribute to the winemaker's art. Few thought this vintage would show due to the difficult spring growing conditions. Corey Beck extracted a wine loaded with tannin and by 2006 it was still closed out and rough. Owner Smith was in despair upon trying it then, but winemaker Beck said have faith, and now the wine is just beginning to show. My notes read "Terrific!" If you are a currant, cassis, big cab with bite fan as I am and you can sit on it two years, jump in. I recommend paying up for a sample bottle.
Tony Galloni says, "Antinori Tignanello 2007 is 95 points," surpassing the '90 and '97. "This is as opulent as I have ever tasted, but there is just enough tannin and structure to keep it from going over the top." I trust Mr. Galloni explicitly on Sangiovese. Although I have not sampled here, I would be remiss in not passing the recommendation along at the recent sale price of $480/six. Your local store can bring it in and it will drink 2012-20. Try it with some liver and fava beans.
Time flies when you're having fun and mine has been fleeting today. Enjoy the week. By the way, is it true that Mayor Cooper owns the Valero at the Rehoboth entrance? Enquiring minds wish to know.
