Find fried chicken bliss in the Cape Region

Have you ever had a craving for a very specific food or flavor or texture? Last week it was all three: fried chicken - something I almost never make and rarely eat. We tend to fill our menus with the healthier, lower-fat skinless, boneless breasts. Maybe the crisp chill in the air had me thinking about indulging in this crunchy treat.

I’m not a big fan of the over-breaded fried chicken the Colonel sells; I want to taste the chicken, not highly-seasoned fried flour. I try to avoid chicken tenders, as they often show up with twice as much coating as the amount of dried-out meat inside. Despite their ardent fans, Royal Farms hasn’t won me over with their heat-lamp warmed piles of breaded bird.

Most of us can remember the first time we listened to a grandmother or other family matriarch share her secret recipe for “southern” fried chicken. I was instructed to start with a quick dip in buttermilk or pickle juice, followed by a thorough dredging in peppered flour, then a skillet simmer in hot, hot fat (usually lard or Crisco).

When you go to a restaurant and they tell you it’s a twenty-minute wait for your order of fried chicken - take that as a very good sign. Instead of offering pre-fried and held in a warming tray pieces, you know the chicken will be perfectly crisp and hot.

In my search for a solution to my craving for fried chicken, we found ourselves at Kick n’ Chicken in Lewes. After a conversation with the owner, Charlie Pollard, we knew we were in the right place.

All of his chicken is locally sourced from a Harbeson grower. The chicken arrives fresh and is never frozen. He prefers yellow chicken to white chicken; they’re richer and tastier. And, it takes almost two full days for the chicken to reach the fryer.

The first step he takes is to marinate the pieces in a salty, seasoned brine. Although Charlie wouldn’t tell me the exact ingredients in the brine, it does have an ingredient that colors the chicken flesh a faint reddish tint (cayenne or paprika or  perhaps some of each?)

Once marinated, the chicken is breaded with a secret coating that seems to have flour but no cornmeal in the mix. The goal is to bread the pieces enough in advance for the coating to become gummy and sticky. This way, when it’s added to the hot fat, the skin becomes encased in a paper-chip crisp shell.

Depending upon how busy the shop is, some of his chicken is cooked in an open fryer, while some is treated to the “broasting” or pressure fryer process. This reduces the cooking time and when the moisture inside the chicken becomes steam, the pressure inside the fryer increases, reducing the temperature required. The result is tender, moist chicken with a crisp coating.

There are a few tricks we can learn from Kick n’ Chicken, if we want to try making good fried chicken at home. Like the advice from Charlie Pollard, as well as Southern grandmothers, some kind of brine is essential. For a crispy coating, let the breaded pieces sit for a bit before cooking them, this way the coating sticks to the skin instead of sliding off in the pan.

Maintaining a constant temperature in the hot oil is another essential step. Here’s where an electric skillet or deep fryer works best, as the electronics are designed to adjust the heat to constantly maintain the desired temperature. Once cooked and crispy do not even think of draining your fried chicken on anything but a rack; paper towels or a brown sack will guarantee sogginess.

I’ve included a few recipes for unusual buttermilk brines sourced from Bon Appetit. I’m thinking a buttermilk - pickle juice combo, spiked with cayenne might be close to the Kick n’ Chicken approach. And don’t rinse off the brine, it helps the breading connect, just shake off the excess.  Since I haven’t figured out the coating secrets Charlie Pollard is holding close to his vest, I’ve provided one from Alton Brown, who typically tests his recipes with care. In this one, he doesn’t specify exactly how much flour, so it might take some experimentation to reach the desired result. I would vote against the approach used by Paula Dean; her recipes feature eggs and a cup of Tabasco in the batter.  And, if you don’t want the hassle of cooking your own chicken or have a crowd coming over to watch the game, go to Kick n’ Chicken in Long Neck or Lewes. In addition to the basics, you can find wraps and wings and sides and desserts baked by Kind Amish Women. Charlie Pollard does everything to keep his customers happy, welcoming the chance for a positive  “thirty second relationship” with everyone he meets. Of course, selling delicious fried chicken doesn’t hurt.

Buttermilk Brine*

4 t salt
1 t pepper
1 qt buttermilk
chicken pieces

Combine salt, pepper and buttermilk in a zip top plastic bag. Add chicken, squeeze out excess air and seal. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours. Shake pieces to remove extra brine before breading.

Alton Brown’s Fried Chicken*

1 broiler/fryer chicken, cut into 8 pieces
2 C buttermilk
2 T kosher salt
2 T Hungarian paprika
2 t garlic powder
1 t cayenne pepper
flour
vegetable shortening

Place chicken pieces into a plastic container and pour in buttermilk. Cover and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. Place chicken in a colander to drain. Combine salt, paprika, garlic powder, and cayenne pepper in a small bowl. Liberally season chicken with spice mixture. Dredge chicken in flour to coat completely; shake off excess. Allow chicken to rest on a rack for at least 10 minutes before cooking. When ready to fry, melt enough shortening over low heat to reach 1/3-inch up the side of a 12-inch cast iron skillet. Once shortening liquefies, raise heat to 325 F; do not allow oil to exceed 325 degrees. Place chicken, skin side down, in the pan: thighs in the center, breast, legs  and wings around the edge of the pan. The oil should now reach half way up the pan. Cook chicken until golden brown on each side to an internal temperature of 180 F, approximately 12 minutes per side. Drain chicken on a rack over a sheet pan. *Adapted from Alton Brown

Brine Flavorings*

Curry
add 4 t curry powder
2 t cumin
2 t turmeric

Chipotle 
add 2 T of adobo sauce from chipotle chilies in adobo

Southern
add 2 T smoked paprika
2 T Tabasco
2 t celery seed

Lemon Dill
add 2 thinly sliced lemons
4 grated garlic cloves
2 C chopped dill

* Adapted from Bon Appetit

Send comments, questions or recipe ideas to capeflavors@comcast.net.