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Firm tannins, great acid balance provide frame for long finish

March 10, 2011

Just returned from Erie, Pa.  Let me tell ya, those folks know how to move snow. Turned in around 11 p.m. to some brief flurries and woke up to six to eight inches and huge windblown drifts. The wind died down and although it continued snowing until late in the day, all roads were drivable, even for the no-snow-tire guys, such as yours truly. The humorous part to me was that when I commented on their removal facility several said it really wasn’t much of a storm. The shelves in the stores were still filled, as well.

Colgin IX Syrah 2007, rated 95 points, is on sale at (drum roll please) $212/bottle plus shipping.  Eschew!  Gesundheit!

If you are going that high, buy a top-rated Cote du Rhone such as 95-point Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape 2005 at $60/bottle or the 98-point Penfolds Grange 2005 for $260 for speculators. I think the 2005 Grange will turn out much better than the higher-touted 2004, selling at $360/bottle. Both need a few more in the cellar, maybe until 2013-14.

The ‘05 is black purple, uses 4 percent Cab, aged 18 months in new American oak. Aromas are very complex on lots of aeration - blackberries, cassis cordial, earth, black truffles, licorice and allspice are accented with vague hints of smoked game, mincemeat and bacon. Firm tannins and great acid balance provide the frame for an incredibly long finish whose flavors echo the mincemeat in the nose and add pleasing coffee and oak-driven toast flavors.

The Chateauneuf would be my pick four bottles to one and a better made, ready to drink next fall wine or at latest 2014 through forever. “Possibly the most backward and closed Beaucastel made since the 1995,” says RP.

He is accurate in using both terms. Backward and closed do not mean the same thing, contrary to what you may read elsewhere. Closed refers to the nose or bouquet of the wine being less accessible. Think of a bouquet of flower buds. You can tell how they will look and smell, but it only hints at the beauty and redolence of an open bouquet.

Backward means the wine will be very slow to incorporate all of its components into a finished wine smelling, taste balanced, finished product, the rough edges smooth or rounded, the finish long and complex. This Beaucastel, when I initially reviewed it in 2009, had very high tannins, was closed to nearly shut down, but in the mouth showed good weight.

In the glass it was an opaque, ruby/purple color - new leather, mushrooms, meat juices, licorice, tar and dark fruit aromas peeked out of the hooded nose on plenty of aeration. The wine was huge, very tannic and structured with a proper balance that screamed out: I’m too young to drink. Now it is just coming into its own. Try to buy one bottle to sample. If you love great Chateauneuf you will probably bring in a case,

If you are a fan of cold temperature Sonoma Pinot Noir and you know of Dan Goldfield, go to wineaccess.com to buy a case of the Dutton-Golfield Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch 2008.  Case only price of $360 for a 94-point Pinot that has been selling north of $40 per bottle.

Read about it at duttongoldfield.com. For a real treat look into the Freestone Hill 2008 from Dutton-Goldfield, but you will pay up to $50 for this 95-pointer.   
For the patient, here is a terrific 2008 Pinot Noir from Edna Valley.

This QPR is going for a bargain $180/case. Everyday Pinot Noir drinkers should be all over this wine with its fragrant, floral bouquet loaded with black-cherry fruit and hints of rose, caramel and forest floor aromas.

The mid palate is jam-like with fine tannins and proper acidity supporting the cola flavors through a pleasingly long, clean finish.

Connor won the Super Region and has the No. 1 seed for the NCAA D II tournament in Kearney Friday and Saturday, March 11-12. I’ll be there.

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