It’s almost Memorial Day: Time to break out the Chardonnay
Memorial Day is approaching and the almanac's long-term forecast says "unseasonably warm." So, I decided to find an inexpensive, crisp Chardonnay, for all those who enjoy sitting out on the deck with a cool, green-gold tinted glass perspiring in their hand. Expression 38, Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2008 is not only drinking at its peak but wise shoppers should be able to buy a case of this 90-pointer under $240. Bottle price $22. Initially on the market at $28-30.
At the current price, 2 McD price points. If it was stored by a reputable broker it should be perfect for summer. The clean, Chardonnay fruit nose evolves into ripe pineapple, lemon and tart green apple flavors. The perceived fruit sweetness is juxtaposed by zesty acidity in this completely dry wine. The long finish is mouthwatering, yet a mineral backbone keeps it clean throughout. Expression 2008 is a lovely cool climate Chardonnay reminiscent of the better white Burgundies. Drink over the next two years.
For those who enjoy California Syrah, Novy and Shafer should be among the first names that come to mind. Your local, well-cultivated wine connection should be able to scour up a case of six each under $440 and still make a decent return. Purchase of one or two bottles will bring a slight premium. Both the Novy Rosellas vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands 2008 - 94 points Wine Enthusiast and 91 Parker - and the Shafer Relentless 2006, 92-94 points, are lovely representatives of the "terroir" and winemaker’s art. I must tell you the Novy is selling around $25 and the Shafer about $70 (two extra years aging) a bottle, so finding the package is key. If you are not curious to sample both and are patient the Novy is by far the better buy if you can afford a case and cellar. Ready in 2012-13
The Novy is dark and brooding on the nose with matte driven, woody, herbal and gravel nuances to black fruit aromas and a soupcon of dried, smoke cured meat. On the palate, blackberry and boysenberry fruit. Polished tannins are smooth for this huge dark wine. The lengthy finish is complex with bitter chocolate, black pepper and spice driven by the aromatic accent (sandalwood) on the finish. Shows elegance now, but will improve over several years.
Relentless Shafer continues its skein of quality bottlings. "Saturated opaque, ruby colored, with aromas of cassis, blackberry, tar, licorice and violet. On the palate, dense, lush, juicy dark berry, cherries, tar, licorice, cola and bitter chocolat comingle. Deep structured with focus over the very long, slightly taut finish. Drinking now, but better 2012-16. Parker, Tanzer and Wine Enthusiast loved it; Wine Spectator said 90. They were wrong on this beauty. That said the buy is six to tide you over the next few years and a case of Novy at $240.
While preparing the wine list for Grove Market where I am busily baking biscuits again this season, we sampled both King and Erath Estate Selection Pinot Noir for placement. Although both were delicious, the Erath 2009 was by far more appealing to me as a food friendly wine. The delightful nose was worth the price of admission alone. Erath is a well-crafted Oregon Pinot Noir made by Gary Horner
It is a pretty cherry color. Opens to pine forest, vanilla, cherry and soft floral notes. A bright palate of cherry pie, red plums, currants with hints of coffee and vanilla allows the first sip to set up the mouth for a roller coaster of flavors with a long, slightly smokey, lingering denoument. You should find it under $20 and $220/case.
If you are shopping Erath, you may wish to look into the Sweet Harvest Pinot Noir 2009, a unique wine, but delicious. Pretty copper, with guava and gardenia aromas, the palate has papaya, pineapple and a hint of marzipan. I was intrigued by the lush ripe pear finish.