The Labor Day Restaurant Roundup

Well, it’s almost time for the locals to come out to play! While many of us were curled up atop the A/C vent, peering out between the window blinds, some new eateries took the plunge into the murky and unpredictable waters of resort restauranting.

Get ready. Get set. GO: Denizens of Bethany Beach are all atwitter about the new Zoca up and running in the short-lived Grotto Pizza spot by the Boardwalk. Executive Chef and co-owner Danio Somoza started out at The Starboard in Dewey Beach, eventually becoming the opening exec at the upscale 99 Sea Level on the Bethany boardwalk. Along with his delightful wife Gabrielle, he recently opened Harvest Tide Steakhouse in Lewes. As far as I know, it’s the only eatery to carry the very expensive and very delicious Wagyu beef on the regular menu. You can cut the 1-inch (+/-) thick New York Strip with the side of your fork.

That last paragraph will surely generate a prickly email from the endlessly talented Ryan Cunningham, executive chef at the newly kicked-up Clubhouse at Baywood. And yes, Ryan kept Wagyu on the menu at Bonz, his former casino digs in Harrington. If you haven’t been to the Clubhouse in a while, give it another try. Chef Ryan has made it his own.

What’s Wagyu, you might ask? (If you don’t have to ask, skip to the next paragraph.) This particular cut of meat is from native Asian cattle. “Wagyu” is a Japanese acronym where “Wa” means Japanese and “gyu” means cow. The animals are selected for their preponderance of intra-muscular fat cells (called “marbling” in the steak biz). The fat comes from a strictly controlled diet (the cow’s, not ours) and melts at room temperature. The cooked product displays a tender texture and a deeply savory taste. OK. Class dismissed. On with the show.

Two new kids this summer have a bit of an ethnic flair. Lewes is buzzing about the new Raas Asian/Indian fusion restaurant on Savannah next to Heirloom. Check out my Aug. 9 Cape Gazette column for the lowdown on Raas. Go to capegazette.com and type “Bob Yesbek Raas Warm Whisper” in the search box at the top right. It will appear as if by magic. The other new semi-ethnic spot is Regan Derrickson’s Nalu Rehoboth, just steps from the Boardwalk. Talented kitchen boss Dave Sauers (remember him from MIXX and The Pond?) whips up beautiful dishes with a Hawaiian flair. (Warning: If you order the large nachos, bring an army with you.)

The Buttery at the corner of Second and Savannah in Lewes rebranded itself early this summer, and 2nd Street Tavern is a total departure from the rather long-in-the-tooth Buttery, with a new bar (partially al fresco), a new menu and a brighter, sunnier vibe. Also in Lewes, Crooked Hammock Brewery is spawning two new siblings! One is about to open in Middletown, and the other is soon to be constructed in Myrtle Beach. Congratulations, La Vida Hospitality! Yes, I’ll have a cold Mootzy’s, thank you, and a chicken salad sandwich. Add bacon, of course….

Indigo, our very own authentic Indian restaurant in Rehoboth, is doing so well that father & son team Suraj & Raghu Kumar just opened a sister eatery in Columbia, Md. These guys dish it up right! Don’t miss their live music extravaganza on the Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights of October’s Jazz Fest!

SoDel Concepts is hard at work on restaurant No. 12: Thompson Island Brewery next door to Bluecoast Rehoboth. Corporate Chef and SoDel VP Doug Ruley is leaning more in a carnivorous direction so as not to diminish the seafood focus at Bluecoast. Tröeg’s Independent Brewing in Hershey, Pa., is helping out with the foamy side of things. When nobody was looking, SoDel Concepts quietly took over the already popular Crust & Craft. With new signs and a striking inside facelift, things are still running smoothly under the able leadership of GM extraordinaire Katie Sherman.

Quickie wrap-up in a speed round: Hold on tight; 208 Social is gone. But keep an eye out for exec and owner Nate. He’ll be back. Breakfast Guru is open on Wilmington Avenue. They are still working on a liquor license, but the orange juice is good. Playa Bowls on The Avenue suggests a surf atmosphere as the Jersey-originated spot whips up fresh juices, açaí bowls and the like. Planet Smoothie (near Fins on the Highway) recently turned the key with a multitude of colorful drinks that can be enhanced with “add-ins.” The menu touts goodies such as The Last Mango and of course the requisite Shag-A-Delic. There are lots of other combinations, but you get the idea. Steamin’ Blues opened in the old Jake’s spot in downtown RB. Good menu, similar to their wildly popular Surfin’ Crab in Lewes. Congrats, Don Vechery & team. It was a sad day when Vineyard Wine Bar Closed. TGI Friday’s near the Safeway also abruptly shuttered – just a few weeks after Delaware’s longtime Georgia House did the same thing. Original Third Edition and Redfin owner Greg Talcott teamed up with Big Fish Restaurant Group to turn the lights back on in the old Zebra spot on Lake. Sazio’s upscale Italian concept (complete with wood-fired oven) is catching on. The old Swell (where Big Sissies used to be at the end of The Avenue) has been taken over by Ron Z and his Shrimpy’s crew. It’s going to be a little pubby bar and grill.

Gray Hare owners Bill Sharp and his wife Debra stepped aside after a long run at Route 24 and Coastal Highway. The spot is now the Coastal Taproom, under the able leadership of former Big Chill Cantina owner Lincoln Rogerson, aka “Lincoln the Yeti.” Right next door, Mit Patel and his Dos Locos partners opened Dos Locos Dos. It’s a mini-version of the downtown mothership with a nice bar and the same menu. And yes, Tomato Sunshine is back, tucked away near Revelation Craft Brewery and Ocean Boulevard Furniture. In Long Neck, Kevin Reading’s Brick Works and the very Italian Two Meatballs are both up & running. Chef Robert Leggett has renamed Cantina Ultima. It’s now Dead Pig Tavern. Watch for him also at Mispillion River Brewery and Brimming Horn Meadery. Just up Union Street from there is Gilligan’s No. 2! Cheryl and Garry provide live music every weekend and an amazingly affordable Sunday brunch. Both are drawing crowds. “Beat Bobby Flay” TV contestant Chef Bill Clifton and his partner Miguel Kaltreider morphed The Brick Restaurant & Tavern into The Counting House. Live music on the roof of the historic Georgetown destination happens every weekend. It will be especially great this Saturday night, Aug. 31, starting at 6. ‘Nuff said? Bon appetit this fall!

Bob Yesbek is a serial foodie and can be reached at byesbek@CapeGazette.com.