Lent brings new and old food traditions to the table
Earlier this week marked a juxtaposition of food traditions: the wild celebrations associated with Fat Tuesday (from the French term Mardi Gras) followed by the start of the Christian season of repentance and reflection known as Lent. This past Tuesday was the day when Catholics typically consumed the rich foods on hand in their households to prepare for the next 40 days of abstinence from indulgence and from eating meat.
In several towns across southern Louisiana, Mardi Gras is a day of parades and costume parties where guests are served jambalaya, étouffée and king cakes. Restaurant chains with pancake menus offer special deals on the day also known as Pancake Tuesday, since the fluffy treats are a great dish in which to use butter and sugar, as well as the sweet swirls of maple syrup or whipped cream on top.
The traditions of Lent start with Ash Wednesday, March 5, 2025, when it is customary for Catholics to fast and to begin a period of self-examination. Many individuals will use the time of Lent to give up something they enjoy as a way of demonstrating their commitment to a more spiritual focus. People will give up sweets, pasta or their favorite adult beverages for 40 days, the same amount of time Jesus spent fasting and praying in the desert before starting his public ministry.
In the early years of Christianity, the church instituted the practice of requiring the faithful to abstain from eating meat on Fridays in memory of Christ's death, which occurred on a Friday. During the season of Lent, the church also called for abstaining from eating meat on Wednesdays. The concept of giving up meat for this period was actually codified by the Conference of Catholic Bishops in 1966.
Growing up in a Catholic home, the period of Lent for me meant the frequent appearance of tuna noodle casserole or baked fish sticks served for Friday and Wednesday dinners. Now that I am living in Lewes, I can honor the food traditions of Lent with the abundant and delicious fresh seafood available at restaurants, groceries and speciality markets.
For the fish tacos in the photo, a simple combination of baked white fish, cabbage slaw and fresh tomato salsa is nestled in a small, white-corn tortilla. For this, you’re better off with a soft tortilla, as there’s very little fat or oil to soften a hard shell, which would shatter at the first bite. Many other recipes you find will often have more sauce, but I prefer the way the fish shines in this version.
For the fresh oysters in the photo, research the happy hour deals at your favorite fish-centric restaurants. Most places in the Lewes and Rehoboth area have special offers on various nights of the week, with low-priced oysters and other combination meals. But, with the Chesapeake so close to us, there’s no better way to honor the traditions of Lent than to dine on a dozen salty beauties.
I’ve included a recipe for a grown-up version of tuna noodle casserole. This one features a cheesy sauce made stovetop that doesn’t rely on cream-of-something soup, starting instead with a roux. You can add a topping of buttered bread crumbs if you prefer a crunchy touch, but I like the creamy texture without. Now I just have to adjust to giving up chocolate for Lent.
Fish Tacos
Preheat oven to 350 F. Scatter the butter on a rimmed baking sheet; place it in the oven to melt. When the butter is melted, arrange the fish fillets on the baking sheet and sprinkle with garlic. Pour the wine around the fillets; season with salt and pepper.
Bake the fish until it flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 12 minutes. Break the fish into 1-inch chunks and set aside. Whisk together cabbage, cilantro, jalapeño and lime juice; set aside. Stir together yogurt, lime zest and salt; set aside. To assemble the tacos, spread the shell with yogurt mixture, then top with chunks of fish, cabbage mixture and salsa. *Fish can be any mild white fish such as skinless cod, snapper or mahi-mahi fillets. Yield: 8 small tacos.
Tuna Noodle Casserole
salt & pepper, to taste
3/4 C frozen peas