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A little quiz: What ‘sticks to your ribs’ but is not barbecue?

September 6, 2019

Fact-finding mission after fact-finding mission has led me to the inescapable conclusion that there is no shortage of Italian joints here at the beach. They are all a little different from one another, and if my email box is to be believed, locals are passionate about their favorites. So grab your red checkered tablecloth, your pasta-spinning spoon and wax-covered Chianti bottle and let’s get started.

A few years ago Lupo Italian Kitchen (nicely ensconced in the Hotel Rehoboth) brought in a shiny new pasta machine, and they’ve been crankin’ out a variety of noodles ever since. GM Chad McMasters tells me that the Wednesday night half-price pasta specials run year-round. Get the bolognese sauce. Trust me on this.

DiFebo’s Rehoboth at the corner of Baltimore and First continues to please with tasty salads and Lisa DiFebo’s family recipes. She’s no stranger to the kitchen, having grown up in her dad’s upstate restaurant. Don’t miss the veal chop and pretty much anything with her dad’s red sauce.

Early this year, Ristorante Zebra on Lake Avenue gave up the ghost in favor of Sazio. Former Redfin and Third Edition boss Greg Talcott teamed up with the talented Big Fish Restaurant Group to give upscale an Italian accent - complete with a wood-fired oven. Now’s the best time to relax al fresco on their front porch. In Lewes, Mara DePace’s Villa Sorrento is about as “neighborhood” as you can get, and, as if linguini with clams and a good chopped salad were not enough, classically trained Mara has been known to burst into song at the slightest provocation.

If longevity is the measure of a good restaurant, then John DiLeo’s Casa DiLeo at the very tip end of Rehoboth Avenue gets the nod for its neighborhood atmosphere and no-frills Italian fare. Of course, no mention of Italian is complete without Touch of Italy. Originally a tiny salumeria/pasticceria carryout on Baltimore Avenue, this wildly popular concept now offers five locations sporting wood-fired entrees and authentic Neapolitan pizzas. Touch of Italy Rehoboth’s two big off-season events are approaching: the annual Thanksgiving Eve bash and the New Year’s Eve party. Both feature great food, live music and dancing.

Though today’s topic isn’t necessarily pizza, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Pat’s Family Pizzeria in Lewes. The place masquerades as a pizza joint, but you don’t want to miss the lasagna. Freshly baked to order (get a salad to keep you busy), it is certainly worth the wait. Co-owner Alex Kotanides takes the place very seriously, and their several Delaware locations are owned and operated by family. Speaking of pizza, good pies may also be had at Louie’s in Rehoboth, Mr. P’s in Lewes, Revelation Craft Brewery in West Reho, Crust & Craft and Pizza Villa in Midway, Half Full in Lewes, Pete’s Steak Shop, and … wait for it … Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats. Who wooda thought?

One of the newest Italian kids on the block is Azzurro in the old Papa Grande’s/Chez la Mer spot on Second. My pick hits there are Chef Fran’s branzino and the lasagna. The rooftop treehouse is a fun place to be. Of course, the Rehoboth granddaddies of pie and red-sauce Italian, Nicola and Grotto, continue to generate loyal in-season lines. Don’t be afraid to try something different: Check out the wings at Grotto and the famous Nick-O-Boli at Nicola.

So as the days get shorter and cooler, it’s a proven fact that cravings for Italian fare will increase. No problem. We’ve got it all, year-round, right here at the beach.

  • So many restaurants, so little time! Food writer Bob Yesbek gives readers a sneak peek behind the scenes, exposing the inner workings of the local culinary industry, from the farm to the table and everything in between. He can be reached at Bob@RehobothFoodie.com.

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