More great wines from recent tastings
Very short intro today. I sampled at least 300 wines in the past month. So, I want to cover a lot of ground for you. Ara Pathway Sauvignon Blanc 2013 is delightful. This $12 pale green-tinted wine has more body and richness than most Marlborough SBs. It opens with citrus and tropical fruit aromas that evolve to focused peach and mineral flavors. Not so much grapefruit/citrus as we expect. But there is just enough to let you know they are from Marlborough, NZ. Mouthwatering acidity provides a clean, long finish.
Domaine Lafage Cotes Catalanes Novellum 2013 is a lovely Chardonnay from Roussilon, France. Jeb Dunnock, writing in Wine Advocate, claimed, “A crazy value that needs to be tasted to be believed. 92 points.” While I agree with Dunnock, I think the wine deserves 2 price points added. I doubt you will find this much quality in the $12/bottle range. An interesting process was employed, where 100 percent chardonnay was left on Viognier lees for three months, half in Burgundian oak and half in stainless. The nose is complex indeed. Plenty of white peach, creme brulee, brioche and hazelnuts in the bouquet. On the palate, full body, a delightful acidity and Chardonnay fruit balance make it rich but clean through its finish. Will improve but ready now. The 2011 and ‘12 are also quite well done; I rate them both 90 points.
Chateau du Chatillard Beaujolais Village Vieilles Vignes (translates old vines) 2013 was a pleasant surprise. As regular readers may remember, I’m rarely a fan of Bo-Julius other than a couple of the Grand Cru selections in very good vintages. Chatillard was an exception. It was intense ruby red with black fruits, red fruits and mocha-highlighted flavors supported with smooth tannins and proper acidity; 90 points if you buy it under $14.
Wrongo Dongo Monastrell 2013 is a solid 89 McD, and you know with a name like that I was standing in line, glass extended.
At $8/bottle, this was another surprise winner. Intense ruby, with clean black and red fruits flavors underlined with mocha nuance The palate is a nice balance of fruit and soft tannin, and the medium finish was clean, 88 points. Observant readers may notice a pattern in my red wine taste preferences.
Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2012 is another $9 value pick, 87 points. Dark brooding fruit, earth, truffle and mineral bouquet riding ripe tannins and perfect acidity. This would go perfectly with fresh pasta marinara, a crusty loaf and avocado salad. Don’t overcook the sauce please.
Steininger Grand Gru Gruner Veltliner Reserve Kamptal 2012 was reasonable at $23, 93 points McD. Medium green-yellow tinge. Gentle swirling revealed tobacco, yellow apple, dill and mineral notes. Full-bodied and complex, with refreshing acid structure.
Spicy and long on the finish. Will cellar. The 2011 was recommended here fall 2012, at $14, now selling at $28. This should also move up also.
Hidden Ridge 55% Slope Impassable Mountain Reserve 2008 was handed a big fat 96 points by RP, and the price went higher than I wish to pay. At the wine tasting, the crowd was four deep but I persevered. My notes read: still inky, barbecue, licorice, currant jam nose; large in mouth, velvet tannins, fruit-driven sweetness. It is actually worth the money. Very long, reverberating finish. Still needs time, good through at least 2030. Limited production, 260 cases. The 2007 and ‘09 were equally good; 2010 up has not been released yet but should come in soon.
Following a worthwhile article on food-wine pairing: www.snooth.com/articles/how-to-pair-with-great-wines.
Many readers have asked for a fairly priced Barolo with which they can start to explore the varietal. I think Renato Corino Barolo 2010 at $40 may be your answer. Oddly, the experts were all over the lot on it. WS’ Suckling 96, Tony Gallons 91+, Jancis Robinson 16-20. The 2010 Renato Corino Barolo opens dark red, with plum, vanilla, smoke, spices, and crushed floral aromas. Silky on the palate, well balanced, earthy, plum flavors, tannin incorporating. The clean finish shows a fruit-driven sweetness although it is completely dry, 93 points if bought under $45.
