Noted winemaker John Duval joins big-name co-op

I just finished reading a David Schildknecht review. Tried to source the wine and found it at Suburban Wine in New York. Since it is against the law to bring it into Delaware due to the decision of our misguided legislators, I refrained from buying.

Reisling from Wachau, Austria, like Chardonnay from Burgundy is at the pinnacle of great wine. Prager Achleiten Smaragd Reisling 2007 was rated 95 points by David, one of my gurus, who is rarely inaccurate and quite elegant in his prose. Suburban is selling the wine at $32/bottle and probably some shipping fee. This is roughly a 40 percent discount from the release price. If you happen to be in New York buy some, then smuggle it into Delaware. Imagine the thrill of emulating those who helped make our country great: Thomas Hancock, John Rowe, Jean Lafitte, Joe Kennedy, Al Capone or Victor Bout. To quote C.S. Lewis, "Of all tyrannies, a tyranny sincerely exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive."

For those less adventurous, Jos. Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Premier Cru 2008 has the Delaware tax imprimatur. Drouhin ships terrific Chablis from selected growers. Vaudon 2008, for those who enjoy dry, limestone-driven chardonnay, is pale golden-colored with white peach, lemon and green apple aromas. These give way to a hazelnut, ginger and lees-flavored mid palate. The finish is buttery but austere, surprising, due to the implied sweetness the nose seemed to evoke. Buy under $360/case. WS 91, Wine and Spirits 93, McD 93(2 price points) Drinking well now. Will improve through 2018.

Penfolds peeps will immediately recognize John Duval, chief winemaker, behind Penfolds’ (Grange) remarkable transformation in the ‘80s and ‘90s. John was winemaker there 30 years, before striking off on his own. Try Duval's own by buying John Duval Eligo, or for a Rhone-style blend try Plexus.

Let this note about John advise you of his collaboration with Long Shadows, a co-op of six of Columbia Valley's most hyped Washington State wineries: Pedestal (Michael Rolland), Pirouette (Agustin Huneeus), Poets Leap (Armin Deil), Sequel (Duval); Feather (Randy Dunn) and Saagi. The co-op was put together by Alan Shoup, formerly of Stimson Lane, conglomerate owner of Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest. Frequent readers will remember Shoup put them into the big, big time as CEO.

The initial release of Duval's production was the 2003, and the wines are gradually improving from the 89-90-point range into the low to mid-90s. Duval understands dry farming Syrah and its winemaking better than anyone still working today, IMO. They are in for a huge ratings breakthrough. Those in early will hit it out of the park in the resale market if the worldwide re-de-pression doesn't get you. Downside - drinking great wine. Recent vintages have been very cool climate so the wine is not hitting its stride. A hot, dry season will make them stellar.

These Shiraz (Syrah) are released two years after production, sometimes longer. Sequel 2009 should hit the markets in November. I recommend buying a case of a two-bottle vertical before the 2011 release. Leave out the ‘04, ‘05 and ‘09. You can view a decent vintage rating chart for the United States and Southern Hemisphere production here: www.winemag.com/PDFs/020109_HarvestReport_2.pdf.