Just rolled in from sunny, warm Indialantic, Fla. Son Daniel competed in the first skimboard contest of the season. I decided to go along as a one-man cheer section and am happy I did. On Friday evening, on the advice of the bellman, we visited Matt’s Casbah. I must say I was reluctant, based on the name. With all that’s going on in the Middle East and a mild aversion to turmeric, poorly made chutneys and the injudicious use of various curries that one frequently finds in the ‘Merican versions of Middle Eastern cooosine prepared by cooking school chefs, why take the risk? Wrong, wrong and wrong. I checked out the menu to find the restaurant served sushi, sashimi and a host of local seafood delicacies. We walked in and took a look at the sushi bar, where the obvious look of very fresh, symmetrically prepared rolls told me this place had its act together.
I won’t give you a blow by blow, but if you are in that area looking for excellent food, great service, an extensive, fairly priced wine list and an art show of talented artists on the walls, don’t let the name scare you off. They also have live decent music and al fresco service.
Crozes Hermitage, rated 92 for $17/bottle is a bargain. Josh Raynolds, who writes Cotes du Rhone for Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, knows his stuff. Whenever he touts, I sample. The Domaine des Remizieres Crozes 2009 is excellent and delicious. Wine purple, it opens with raspberry, violets and pie spice accented by black pepper plus a touch of olives and road tar. On the palate, a proper acid frame carries smooth berry flavors. The finish reinforced the nose and shows round, full mouth feel.
Another critic I follow on certain varietal wines is Jay Miller. He also writes for IWC and usually his take on domestic Reisling is on the money. When he rated Raza Vineyards The Composer Riesling 92 points, which can be found for under $240/case, I grabbed some to sample. Ninety-two is the highest score the wine snobs will award a domestic Riesling. Tanzer only ponied up 90 points. Don’t let the residual sugar level scare you off; the balance is perfect. Here are slightly abridged versions of both write-ups.
Miller writes, “The 2009 Composer contained 1.6 percent residual sugar. Light straw-colored, superb aromatic array of mineral, petrol, spring flowers, citrus and a hint of tropical fruits...just off-dry on the palate due to a pH of 3.02 and 7.4 g/L of total acidity. Made in a Kabinett style with a crispness and laser-like focus on the palate as well as outstanding concentration, it should evolve for several years and drink well for a decade.
Tanzer wrote, “very pale, green-tinged color. Aromatic nose combines flowers, lime leaf and wild herbs. Juicy and perfumed in the mouth, with brisk, fruit-driven flavors of quince, white peach and pear. There’s nothing overripe about this beautifully balanced, varietally accurate Riesling, which tastes drier than its 16 grams per liter r.s. would suggest.” He agreed on the chemistry.
Miller hit it out of the park IMO. Their scores, as usual, are too low. Had this been shown in a German bottle on the banks of the Mosel or the Rhine both would have scored it higher and raved on. I think this will stand up to the best German Kabinetts and deserves a 94, due to value points and top-flight quality. I found no quince or pear, but rather apple, peach and pineapple. I would expect to pay north of $30 for this quality. Please cellar. While, like most Riesling, it is easily approachable now, a few years in the cellar will bring big rewards.
Dan took first in semi-pro and second in men’s, but his highlights were the Casbah and 10 skate parks within 10 miles.
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Email John at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
