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Wine

Pride Mountain's Foley the man to follow

November 14, 2011

2006s: La Serena Brunello di Montalcino (Wine Spectator-rated 97) Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino (WS, 96); 2009s: Seghesio "Home Ranch" Zinfandel (WS, 95);Two Hands "Gnarly Dudes" Shiraz (WS, 93) and  José Palacios "Petalos" Bierzo (WS, 93) plus 2008 Robert Mondavi "Oakville" Cabernet Sauvignon (WS, 94).  This six pack can be found for $235.  A case of two each for $460. That’s a lot of great juice for short cash. Many are advertising the La Serena at $45, but when you call it is sold out. Gnarly Dudes priced at $30 sold out everywhere.  I sampled Gnarly. You folks know my penchant for aptly named beach wines.  This is indeed a gnarly dude, my friends. Black on purple, an intense bouquet of mineral, roast nuts, crushed currants, toffee, pie spice, dark chocolate and lavender.

On the palate, very juicy, layered black fruits meld with proper tannins and acid. The denouement is long and supple. Drink through 2015. The other five have been reviewed here recently.

Domaine des Aubuisieres Vouvray, Cuvee de Silex 2010, rated 90 points; buy at $18/ or $180/case. Dry Vouvray, the 2010 Cuvee de Silex  shows a lovely fragrance of flower and melon with medium-bodied, crisp, flavors and flint notes. There is some residual sugar, but perfect acidity is the proper foil to the sweetness. Drink through 2012.

If Switchback Ridge, Hourglass, Paloma, Schoolhouse or Engel Family wines ring any bells, then 15-year Pride Mt. winemaker Robert Foley, would be your man to follow. Since 1998, Foley started bottling “The Griffin,” his Claret (an unprotected name for Bordeaux, commonly used through the 18th and 19th Century, recently reintroduced to avoid labeling laws) under the Robert Foley Vineyards label. The claret is a blend of very ripe 50 percent Petit Sirah, 37 percent Cab and 13 percent Merlot. It is deep, dark, purple colored, with complex aromas of wild berries, camphor and violets. On the palate, black cherry, well-balanced acidity and gripping tannin. A mouthful of red wine! His Howell Mt. Cab is killer also, although of limited production.

I want to adjust a comment made on release of 2009 Bordeaux due to mailbox queries. Many have emailed me to tell of the bottle they bought that wasn’t all that. Friends, there may be some bad 2009 Bordeaux, but none I have sampled so far. None of the Red Bordeaux 2009 is close to being ready to drink yet. Neither is most of the white. 2009 bordeaux is so universally exemplary, however, that you can buy the less expensive and cellar lots of it for consumption six to 25 years out, without the premium price tag risk. If you are insecure about what a young, great, immature Bordeaux should taste of, buy a highly rated, well known, expensive label to learn. Or drop me an email with a query and I will try to help with your selection.

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