Resort Restaurant Roundup 2019

My web post last week about the impending demise of Forgotten Mile Ale House got me thinking about the differences between resort restaurants and those in year-round cities and towns. Yes, our season has certainly lengthened, but the plethora of choice in such a compact dining destination puts even more pressure on restaurateurs to fill seats in what’s left of the “off-season.” Some hit the ground running, and for some … well, it takes a while. 

It’s all about survival of the fittest. The ongoing battle between For Lease signs and Grand Opening signs is proof positive that operating an eatery at the beach is not for the faint of heart. So fasten your seatbelts: It’s time for my ninth annual year-end Business of Eating Restaurant Roundup. 

We’ll start out on three positive notes: First, I think even Hari Cameron and his brother Orion were surprised at the success of their casual Grandpa MAC concept. The pasta and cheese-centered idea took off and then quickly spread to Coastal Highway. The original Baltimore Avenue version will soon reappear at the new Revelation Craft Brewery spot in Georgetown (former home of 16 Mile). The Cameron brothers’ plans to expand have been enhanced by the sale of Hari’s a(MUSE.) restaurant. The Maryland-based buyer plans to open a beachy version of his popular Theo’s steakhouses in St. Michaels and Cambridge. 

The second positive note - and something I have the distinct pleasure of announcing here in the Cape Gazette - is the impending transfer of ownership of the Back Porch Café, one of Rehoboth’s longest-lived fine-dining destinations. The original owners of over 44 years are handing the operations to a group of enthusiastic, longtime employees. Even better news is that the new plans might include extending Back Porch Café’s traditionally short season. 

Good things come in threes, and regular readers will remember my column from a few months ago about Blue Moon executive chef and co-owner Lion Gardner’s decision to remove himself from the day-to-day grind that is the Blue Moon (and actually any fine-dining) kitchen. One hundred percent of my comments from guests say that the transition was seamless. The owners of Blue Moon understand that you don’t mess with success. 

October’s surprise closing of the classy-looking Cuvee Ray Wine Bar the week before JazzFest took many by surprise. Friendly and wine-knowledgeable boss Ray Kurz says they will reopen in the spring. Fans of his music-centered little spot are keeping their fingers crossed. Speaking of wine bars, Vineyard Wine Bar also turned the key for the last time. A kitchen fire and the associated pressure to reopen were too much for oenophile Joe Lertch. His Vineyard mothership in Havre de Grace, Md. is still going strong. 

Speaking of motherships, father and son team Suraj and Raghu Kumar’s Indigo Indian restaurant in Rehoboth has spawned yet another successful spot in Columbia, Md. Columbia is rife with Indian restaurants, but Indigo’s authentic made-to-order fare has quickly made its mark. Speaking of Indian, here’s a little quiz: What happens with you combine Asian, Thai and Indian tastes? The answer is Raas Asian/Indian fusion restaurant in Lewes, tucked neatly between Heirloom and 2nd Street Tavern on Savannah Road. Chef GG Gupta is a bit of a celebrity there and couldn’t be more enthusiastic about his tasty creations.  

The Derrickson brothers are always ready to spring a surprise on us. In 2019, Regan duplicated his Dewey Beach Nalu concept just steps from the ocean in Rehoboth. And just a couple of weeks ago, brother Bryan recovered from the demise of the doomed-from-the-start Hooters in Midway by opening his upbeat Hideout Arcade. He shares the new place with fitness guy James Botti. So far, that emporium of retro goodies has garnered positive comments. Bryan is also the proprietor of Conch Island Key West Bar & Grill in Rehoboth where he combines his penchant for casual Key West dining with a well-curated lineup of live music. 

It’s hard to miss the brand- new Thompson Island Brewery neatly positioned next to its sister Bluecoast Seafood Grill. SoDel Concepts boss Scott Kammerer made sure there was very little similarity between the two – except for the fact that it’s still a challenge to get a weekend seat in either place, even in the winter. As if he didn’t have enough to do already, he and Crust & Craft founder Brenton Wallace pulled off an early summer transfer of ownership. In early 2019, the cozy little pizza/small-plates joint got a complete remodel (including more effective signage). SDC rarely makes mistakes, and to that end they retained the talented and very popular GM Katie Sherman. 

Breakfast Guru in the old Cultured Pearl spot on Wilmington is still dishing up breakfasts until early afternoon. Zimbabwe-born owner Dennis Kangayi immigrated to the United States to become a computer engineer, but found the restaurant business to be … well, just more fun. Looks like he will survive to serve breakfast into the new year. 

I hope you read last week’s Business of Eating column to get the lowdown on the new Grain on the Rocks about to bring an entirely new food, beverage and entertainment paradigm to the Cape May-Lewes Ferry terminal. 

We can’t wait to see what The Pines boss Tyler Townsend and his partners do with their newly acquired Aqua Grill directly across Baltimore Avenue. In that same vein, one of the former partners in Aqua Grill has plans for the recently closed El Jefe Gordo, opened earlier this year by Fins Hospitality Group after the problem-plagued Beachside Grill gave up the ghost. Just around the corner on Lake, Big Fish Restaurant Group and longtime restaurateur Greg Talcott replaced the old Zebra with their new Sazio. Upscale Italian works in that location. 

Around yet another corner, Dos Locos founders Joe and Darryl are not only getting back into the restaurant business, but they are returning to their original digs in the old Lily Thai spot on N. First. Their new Square One will not be a Mexican concept, but Joe and Darryl are pros, so we’re anxious to see what they come up with. 

Chris and Gary Desch opened Chaps Pit Beef and immediately hit the jackpot with consistently good - and very reasonably priced - food. Tucked behind Iron Hill Brewery on The Highway, this Baltimore franchise is a favorite haven for carnivores far and wide. But not everyone is a carnivore. To that end, Samovar Restaurant Group's new concept, SEED, is slowly moving toward opening in the new Schell Building next door to Rosenfeld's, Minh's Bistro and the Beef Jerky Outlet. Co-owners Dmitry Gorin and Yauhen Yurhelevich say that the new concept will center on a “build your own meal” paradigm. Though steak, chicken and shrimp will be available, the little spot touts itself as ultra-vegan and vegetarian friendly. Even this carnivore finds that pretty interesting. I’ll keep you informed. 

A few steps west on Route 24, husband and wife team Lincoln and Cassie Rogerson morphed the popular Gray Hare Tavern into their own Coastal Taproom.  Lincoln is the former owner of the Big Chill Surf Cantina, now operated by LaVida Hospitality. Because they are not required to serve food, Coastal is also a value-added for Mit Patel’s new-this-year Dos Locos No. 2 in the old El Dorado spot next door. 

Whew! That was exhausting. Keep an eye on The Business of Eating in 2020 for even more of what our Cape Region is bringing to the table. Happy New Year, and thanks for keeping me company here on this page.