Soave is a fine food wine and nice summer sipper
Sunday evening I went to a Cape Henlopen Theatre Academy presentation benefiting Broadway Cares. The program was very enjoyable. The talent pool at Cape is very deep. Rather than single out those performing, let me just comment that it was a delightful evening. Special props to Geisha Down, a Baltimore rock band and our own local funk band, Conjunction Funktion, who donated their time to perform with the academy students.
Let’s look at some wine from Moldova, sandwiched between Ukraine and Romania. Chateau Vartely Feteasca Regala 2014 can be found in D.C. and Maryland under $10. Nice summer wine, light and refreshing with apple nose and citrus plus mineral counterweight. Feteasca Regala is a varietal wine generated from a Furmint (Hungarian clone), Feteasca Alba cross. A lovely and interesting merlot is Cricova Vin Virgin 2011. Dark purple-colored, it opens to sour cherry, more cherry, ripe black currant with some toasted oak notes. On the palate it is astringent approaching bitter but the fruit, moderate acidity, alcohol and tannins somehow combined to support a delicious, wood smoke broiled, hunk of beef. The finish is a bit astringent but has plenty of ripe fruit and possibly just a bit of sugar, 89 McD. Slightly off topic but Cricova Crissecco Brut NV is a darn nice $12 sparkler. Another sample I received was from Bostavan labeled Cabernet Sauvignon & Rara Neagro. Rara Neagro is another varietal wine indigenous to the region. Some compare it to Malbec. Dark color, almost opaque, nose was closed but swirling showed some black currant, oak spices and medium-to-high tannin. Needs time, but the balance is there to provide aging capacity. This is a very dangerous part of the world right now. So, if you see any of these wines give them a try.
Domaine Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila Haut Rosé 2014 are blended of Cinsault and Grenache. Deep rose color, pretty strawberry and raspberry nose with a floral fillip. Crisp, dry palate with citrus and mineral, medium-long, clean finish. Under $13, 87 points. The Bila Haut Cotes du Roussillon white is a blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc. It is pale lemon with green highlights. Nose is lemon, grapefruit, hints of smoke. Fresh on the palate with plenty of acidity and mineral notes. Finishes cleanly with a tad of salinity. Can you say clams on the half shell or crab cocktail, 88 points under $14.
Mark West Willamette PN 2013 is a ton of wine for the money; under $22, 90 McD. Great wine for cheese and red sauce lovers. Do not confuse with the Cali Pinots. The Willamette is garnet-colored with earthy aromas supported by cola, cherry, cranberry and pie spice. Decent acid/tannin balance, finishes clean and dry.
Soave is an Italian summer sipper and a fine food wine for our local fish and shellfish that are often overlooked. Let’s remedy that today with two selections I recently sampled. Castello Soave Classico, with 90 percent Gargenega and 10 percent Trebbiano de Soave, is pale golden and opens to banana, butterscotch, orange blossom with a hint of gasoline. On the palate, pears and apples, with some lemon in the long, dry finish. Under $16, 87 points. Going upscale is Bolla Tufaie Soave Superiore 2012. Soave 15 percent here. Straw-colored, floral nose with pears. On the palate, glycerin smooth with peaches and hints of lemon, finishes long and mildly spicy, 89 points. Flounder broiled with butter, hold the lemon; the wine will provide acidity.
Regarding ratings on Italian wine. IGP (or IGT) is a name-protected region. DOC, there are 332, Controlled Designation of Origin. Must have been an IGT for at least five years. DOCG (73) Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin must have been a DOC for at least 10 years. Requires more stringent regs and must be tasted by an appointed panel. I’m guessing there may be some politics involved. How about you? Classico is produced in the oldest part of DOGC. Superiore must contain at least .5 percent more alcohol and be produced from hectares using less than allowed grapes than a DOC . Riserva means wine has been aged for a specific time. Italian wines have never been classified as are those of France, although recently several groups have tried. I read it was like herding cats.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
